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Germination and Stratification methods

March 22, 2026

Stratification Methods

Stratification is the process in which a seed experiences a set of conditions that will break its natural dormancy so it may germinate.

If a seed just needed moisture and warm temperature to germinate, then this could happen in Autumn. A seed germinating in Autumn would probably not survive a cold winter. Evolution has taught seeds from many plants, perennial natives for example, to not germinate until they have spent a certain amount of time in a cold/moist environment, Then, under warm moist and sometime light, they germinate.

Other seeds that have no stratification period may have come from plants that don’t shed their seeds until so late in the fall the seeds never experience the conditions of warmth required to germinate. Others come from plants that are very early flowering plants that produce seed by July, ensuring sufficient time for the plant to mature so it can survive the winter.

If seeds require stratification according to the seed packet/information sheets, there are four Stratification Methods.

Late fall. In the late fall, plant seeds directly in the garden. Plant more than you need in case of critters and poor germination rate. Mark the location well. Watch for the seedlings in the spring, then thin and cultivate appropriately.

Winter Seed Sowing. Plant seeds in containers and then place them outside to await spring. They must be protected from critters and protected from drying out. Craft large clear or translucent plastic containers fashioned from jugs that contain a lid, use a plastic tote box to hold pots, use recycled plastic salad boxes or even a regular plastic flat with seed cells and a domed top.

Winter sowing

Ensure enough holes in the bottom of the seed container to allow for rain/snow melt to drain. Fill your container with moist potting soil, plant the seeds, label, and cover with a plastic dome, (Leave the lid off any jug.) Secure the domed top cover with a piece of duct tape and/or wrap twine around the entire box affair.

Place it outside in the snow in a shady area or where it will only get morning sun to avoid premature germination. Mark the spot with a stick. Come spring attend to the emerging seedlings daily by opening/closing the top and watering as required by the weather. Transplant to the garden or to small pots as appropriate.

Late Winter. Determine how long your chosen seeds need to be stratified from stratification lists or the seed package. To this number, add the amount of time your seeds require to germinate after the stratification then add the time required to raise them from germination to transplant age. Start the stratification process that number of weeks before the last spring frost date. They should be ready to transplant, but there is no hurry to plant, they have all summer to establish themselves before their first winter.

Cold Stratify in the Refrigerator. You could place the pots with your seeds planted directly in a refrigerator until they germinate. Do not cover them in the frig and keep them moist. More commonly the paper towel/coffee filter and plastic zip lock bag method is used.

Forced Germination

Lay a paper towel/coffee filter out flat. Fold it in half. Fold it in half again (now quarters). Unfold it so that the exposed surface area is now half of the original. Moisten the paper by misting. (Not dripping.) Place your seeds on one half of the now-moist paper (that is already folded in half once) and fold the paper along the crease previously made, so that the seeds are sandwiched between two layers of paper. Place this in a zip lock bag, seal and label. Put the bag in the frig for the required number of weeks to stratify, then pot them up and await germination (if not already). Grow them to transplant stage.

You can use moistened perlite or vermiculite in a zip lock bag instead.

Early Spring. Not enough weeks left in winter to accomplish any of the above?

Cold Stratification in the Refrigerator and Freezer. Add the days required for germination plus the days required to grow them to transplant size. That number of days before the last spring frost, begin. Follow the cold stratify in the refrigerator instructions but only put the bag in the frig for 24 hours. Then place it in the freezer for 24 hours. Repeat this 6 times. Plant the seeds in pots and await germination and growth.

Reference lists of stratification times and germination times can be found below, as well as, easy downloadable PDFs.

Just press the below buttons OR keep scrolling down

Stratification Table Herbs PDF download

Stratification Wildflowers PDF download

NAPS Germination requirements PDF download

Stratification table for Herbs

Download available above

Disclaimer: Information from websites varies and may not be accurate. Always check the plant is suitable for Zone 4 Canada (Zone 3 U.S). Stratification Table Herbs

Stratification Table Flowers

Download available above

Disclaimer: Information from websites varies and may not be accurate. Always check the plant is suitable for Zone 4 Canada (Zone 3 U.S).

Growing Food

April 25, 2025

So you’re a flower grower, not a vegetable grower? Did you know that vegetables are actually easier to grow, taste better than grocery store purchases and do not have poisons on or in them (unless you do it). The seeds are cheaper than nursery plants, though granted your produce will be more expensive than in-season store bought vegetables when you consider your time and energy spent – but much more satisfying to eat.

Do not picture acres of row on row of vegetables which means you must harvest, clean, freeze and store vast quantities of produce. Eating cabbages, beans and potatoes until you turn green. No. Simply interplant only your favourites amongst your flowers. Perhaps a pepper or tomato plant. A few radishes, beets, swiss chard or red Russian kale. (In France I saw dill waving in the breeze interplanted with the flowers in the boulevards and rosemary hedges.)

Seed companies now sell many vegetables that grow only to mini sizes. You could even have little carrots in your planters so that you have pretty feathery green leaves. Consider that garlic is a companion plant to roses. Since the former must be planted in the fall you can get it into the ground when you hill up those roses. A 12 inch pot of mesclun (mixed lettuces) is very attractive and will supply you with plenty of salads. Just keep picking those outside leaves and remove any blossom stems.

Vegetables are healthy food. They are better tasting than lilac blossoms, violets and day lily flowers. But I must admit nasturtium leaves should be given a chance by dedicated vegetable growers.

Check out some of our articles on growing food and have fun!

Growing Garlic

March 20, 2022

Garlic is one crop that grows well in the sandy growing conditions of the Highlands region. It’s unique in that it’s a bulb that is planted in autumn and harvested nine months later. Choose hard-necked varieties such as “Music” that do well in our temperate climate. Read more…

Growing Garlic

Buy bulbs of garlic from a local and trusted grower. Plant bulbs in your garden in late October or early November before snow fall. Amend your soil with compost or other organic fertilizer. Plant your bulbs 4-6 inches apart and a good 4 inches deep. Too shallow and the frost will heave them out of the ground and too deep and they will expend too much energy trying to reach the surface. Separate a clove from the bulb and place it pointed end up in the hole. Cover it over with earth and then cover with 4-6 inches of light mulch.

Garlic can be planted in rows (run North to South) or in amongst a flower garden where it looks quite attractive. It is a companion to roses, carrots, lettuce, beets and cabbage but not onions, peas or beans.

Leave the mulch in place in the following spring and throughout the summer. The mulch will retain moisture and repress weeds. Water well every week, if there isn’t sufficient rain. After June 21st, the scape should appear. When it forms one curl, cut it off to retain vigour in the bulb. You can use the scapes raw or cooked in salads and other recipes where mild garlic flavour would be desired.

Pull up the garlic in August when three or so outer leaves turn brown. Tie in loose bunches and hang in a shady, breezy, dry place to dry. When dry after a week or so rub off the dirt and outer layer of paper skin with your hands. Snip off the stem about 3 inches above the bulb. Store the bulbs in a dark dry place by hanging them in an old onion bag.

Erosion Solutions From Heavy Rain

October 25, 2021

Question: Can you slow water runoff at the top of a slope?

Haliburton County Master Gardener advises you to build a small rain garden at the top of your slope. Add a small berm at the top of and/or mid-way down your slope. Put in a berm of logs, branches, soil and/or rocks to slow down the water running off and to allow time for the rain to absorb and for plant roots to establish. The idea is to place any material that will act to obstruct or slow down the path of water. Organic material has the additional benefit of providing texture and nutrients to your soil as it breaks down.

Clearing a shoreline or hillside of herbaceous plants, shrubs and trees can lead to erosion if not re-planted. Longer, steeper slopes, especially those without adequate vegetative cover are more susceptible to very high rates of erosion during heavy rains than shorter, less steep slopes.

Please remember that a rain garden is not the same as a water garden. There are 5 components to a rain garden:

1. Depression
2. Amended filter bed (see wood log trench below)
3. Berm on the low side
4. Rockery to slow water entering the garden if necessary
5. Plants tolerant of water and long periods of dryness (i.e. 2-3 days of standing water)

A rain garden is a low tech solution for a location that periodically gets inundated with water. For example some downspouts can’t handle the quantity of rain and the spill over can cause existing vegetation to die and erosion of soil. Hard surfaces channel water during torrential rain and spring snow melt events that cause erosion particularly on steep slopes. A rain garden and berm might be an affordable solution. A 5X10 foot rain garden 6 inches deep is equivalent to 11 rain barrels.

Dig your rain garden (12-18” deep) and fill with a combination of logs, branches, and wood chips at different stages of decomposition. Add native soil and locally composted organic matter. Plant. Remember good humid soil will store a lot of water. Other practices for extreme sites is to mulch deeply, contour the soil, plant native species adapted to the location and plant densely.

Select the Right Plants

In this situation plants that can withstand short periods of flooding and long periods of dryness are required. Xeriscaping plants i.e. those that tolerate drought won’t do well in a condition that includes extreme wet and extreme dry. Likewise plants that require constant moisture will not do well.

Do favor native over non-native plants and do not plant fast growing invasive plants however tempting that might be to stabilize your slope.

The following native Ontario plants can tolerate moist and dry soil:

Aster (Aster spp.)
Bergamot, Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta)
Blazing stars, Rough (Liatris aspera)
Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis)
Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens)
Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)
Verbena (Verbena spp.)
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Sweet gale or bog myrtle (Myrica gale L) Myricaceae (Wax-myrtle or bayberry Family)
Non invasive ornamental grasses, native sedges (they look like grasses and can tolerate some shade), and rushes. Hierochloe odorata or Sweetgrass
Marginal Woodfern (Dryopteris marginalis) can tolerates mid-summer drought if planted in the shade.
Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) a Zone 3 Ontario Native that is heat and drought tolerant,
Liatris aspera or Blazing Star, another Ontario native,
Schizachyrium scoparium or Little Bluestem (Ontario native)
Highbush Cranberry (V. trilobum or V. opulus var. americanum). This native shrub likes to grow in open, wooded, somewhat poorly drained locations. In the ideal location, cranberry can become very wide, often three meters or more, and reach about the same height.
Low bush Cranberry or Squashberry (V. edule)
Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago) will grow almost anywhere including shade, but they take on their best form in full sunlight. In full sun their fall leaf colors will be a vibrant purple-red.
Common or Eastern Ninebark up to 3 m, spring flower cluster, berries

Credit Valley Conservation planted native plants in their rain garden. They chose the following plants because they were widely available at local nurseries: Red Osier Dogwood, New England Aster, Tall Meadow Rue, Black Eyed Susans, Canada Anemone. Shade-tolerant native plants included: Common elderberry, Sensitive Fern and Heart leaved Aster.

A dense base of day lilies and irises will give you a fibrous root system. While they aren’t native they are often planted in a naturalized landscape.

To buy plants please try your local garden center and check other sources listed in our list of suppliers and services here.

Article Sources

Credit Valley

Toronto Zoo

For additional plant selection please see Appendix C, List of Plants tolerating both wet and dry conditions. University of Guelph

Attracting Birds to Your Property

April 25, 2019

Courtesy Over to Me Studio
Janice Hardy, Retired MG

The two fastest growing hobbies in North America are gardening and bird watching. Imagine combining both hobbies in your very own back yard through designing and planting a garden to attract these very special friends. To entice a variety of birds to your yard or garden, provide them with an oasis of everything they need to survive: food and water, shelter from weather and predators and a nesting place and materials. If you design your garden from a bird’s perspective, they will come.

The Birds

Many birds require different food sources – from insects to seeds; from fruit to nectar. Warblers, for example eat primarily insects while finches like seeds such as those found at bird feeders. Nectar eating birds include hummingbirds and orioles. Some will forage for seeds directly from the ground while others look for insects under fallen leaves in woodland areas. Most birds will eat two or three different types of food, but usually have a preference for one. For the safety of birds, avoid the use of pesticides.

The Plan

The first step is to evaluate your space. Birds like to be in transition areas that provide food and water, shelter and nesting areas. If your property borders on a forest you are in a perfect area to develop a transition garden. However those on smaller properties require gardeners to visualize the transition area from a fence or wall where open space on the outer edge such as a lawn gradually gives way to mature shrubs closer to the fence or wall.
Transition the garden from lower perennials and annuals to shrubs and trees. Plan for a bird bath or water feature. Birds are especially attracted to moving water so consider suspending a plastic water bottle with a small hole in the end and allowing it to drip into the bird bath. Bird feeders around the garden, in the open but close to shelter, are another feature that should be considered, especially for winter sustenance.

The Plants

Fruit producing trees and shrubs will attract birds year round with fragrant spring blooms to fall and winter berries. They also provide an environment for those insects that attract warblers and orioles. In general, shrubs can grow quite tall (1.2-2.4m; 4-8 feet), although there are some dwarf varieties of Viburnums and Rugosa. While many deciduous shrubs are hardy only to Zone 5, there are some attractive native species for the gardens of Zone 4. Plants to consider are: Dogwoods, Viburnums, Rugosas, and Sumacs.

Birds are particularly fond of the native Red Twig Dogwood (Cornus albus) whose dense thickets of branches provide shelter and food for flycatchers, kingbirds, catbirds, waxwings, woodpeckers and vireos in the spring and summer and succulent berries in fall and winter. The red foliage in fall and red stems in winter contribute additional interest to the garden.

One of the great beauties of the autumn season is the Burning Bush (Euonymus alata ‘Compactus’). It’s not native but does well in our northern gardens. It’s distinguished by unusual corky “wings” which flare out along its branches as well as vibrant scarlet foliage and small red-orange fruit in the fall enticing cedar waxwings, cardinals, robins and brown thrashers. The plant grows 1.8-3 m (6-10 feet) high but there is a smaller variety, “Rudy Haag”, growing only 1-1.5 m (3-5 feet) high and wide. This is a shrub that is best left unpruned although it can be pruned if you have space issues. It is not fussy about soil requirements (except for excessive wet areas), will grow in sun to part shade and there are no significant pest problems.

Oregon Grape (Mahonia aquifloium) is a wonderful addition to your shrub base. A broad-leaf evergreen native to western regions, the fragrant yellow flowers in spring produce spectacular blue fruit that clings to the branches over winter. Both Blue and Grey Jays, waxwings, robins, redstarts and thrashers will forage for remaining fruit during fall migration and winter.

Shrubs should be planted at the back of the garden amidst evergreens such as junipers, spruces, and pines that are often preferred nesting sites for many birds. Conifers also offer warm shelter and protection from predators and food for house finches, crossbills and red-breasted nuthatches. If space is an issue consider a coniferous shrub such as Pfitzer Juniper (Juniperus x pfitzeriana). With a mature height of 6-8 feet this shrub delights robins, warblers and catbirds with superb nesting sites.

Deciduous trees such as a hardy hawthorn, with their exquisitely fragrant blooms in spring are a magnet for migrating warblers and in fall, cedar waxwings and robins eat the fruit. Be sure to check the zone as many Hawthorn cultivars are not hardy to Zone 4.

Whether grown on a fence or climbing a tree or trellis, Vines will add a dimension of height to your garden as well as provide shelter and nesting areas to our feathered friends. Vines that flower at different times of the year or have brightly coloured foliage in the fall will add interest in all seasons. Honeysuckle (Lonicera x brownii ‘Dropmore’ Scarlet) are a favourite of hummingbirds and robins will nest in a thick clump of Clematis. Indigo Buntings prefer to nest within a vine tangle such as Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata). The native Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) provides winter food and spectacular colour beckoning thrushes, woodpeckers, vireos and warblers.

The final section of the transition garden that birds love includes herbaceous perennials, grasses and annuals. They provide seeds for ground feeders such as sparrows and dark-eyed juncos as well as nesting materials for many birds. Some plants, such as Bee Balm, Bleeding Heart and Columbine will attract the nectar eaters – hummingbirds and orioles.

Grasses furnish sufficient shelter for finches and sparrows that prefer foraging in lower branches and also attract insects for warblers. Grasses also provide excellent nesting material and the tall grasses such as Karl Foerster(Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’) lend themselves to planting near the back of the border with shorter grasses such as Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens) as accents closer to the front of the garden.

Plant progressively from taller to lower species that bloom at a variety of times over the season to add more interest to the garden. Any perennial that produces seeds will provide food for cardinals, finches, indigo buntings, chipping sparrows, song sparrows and goldfinches. Some excellent Zone 4 perennials or annuals include spring flowering plants – Columbine, Bleeding Heart; early summer flowering plants – Coreopsis, Cosmos, Bee Balm, Daylily; mid-August to September – Purple Coneflower, Black-Eyed Susan and other Rudbeckia, Daisy, Phlox; Autumn flowering plants – Sedum, Asters; annuals for late spring to frost – Impatiens, Petunias and Zinnias.

In summary, some key points to remember:

Birds require food and water, shelter and nesting areas. A few bird friendly seed-producing perennials and a bird bath are good starters, especially for common back yard birds (Finches, sparrows, woodpeckers, chickadees and nuthatches). Avoid the use of pesticides; Transition the garden from open areas and low growing plants such as annuals and some perennials to larger and taller perennials such as Black-Eyed Susan and Coneflower to even larger shrubs and trees; Choose plants that bloom at different times of year: Examples are Columbine and Bleeding Heart for spring, Bee Balm and Daisy for summer and Asters and Sedum for fall; Add winter interest and food sources by planting evergreen shrubs and trees, plants with interesting bark such as dogwood and burning bush and vines like Virginia Creeper; You don’t need to design a brand new garden – just add some of the above featured plants and a bird bath and you are well on your way to having birds in the garden.

Resources
Bezener, Andy, Birds of Ontario, Lone Pine Publishing, 2000
Dolezal, Robert J.,Birds in Your Back Yard, Readers Digest Association, 2005
Lanicci, Rachael, Garden Secrets for Attracting BIrds, Planet Friendly Publishing, 2010

Cornell Lab of Ornithology “Bird Notes”.
Fletcher Wildlife Garden, Ottawa, Ontario
Landscape Ontario
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