Wildlife

Plants and Deer

August 3, 2024

White tail deer are common in the Highlands; we are living in their preferred habitat of mixed forest with open meadows. We all love to see these exquisite creatures until they start nibbling on our most precious plants, usually our favorites. Deer will eat almost anything if they are hungry, such as the first wild leeks of spring but they much prefer a salad buffet of non-native hostas.

Many gardeners have their own deer-proofing ideas ~ from the bar of soap hanging from a tree to a string of aluminum foil plates waving in the breeze. While some of these may work from time to time there are other strategies that may have a longer lasting effect.

These strategies include avoiding the deer favourite plants and choosing plants that deer generally don’t like.

It may seem like deer will eat anything, but in fact they have distinct preferences. The plants listed below are particular favourites of deer and may draw them into your garden. Unfortunately, our favourites are often deer favourites!

Deer Resistant Plants

Deer have an innate sense of determining what foods are good for them and what is not. They know the poisonous plants to avoid but like humans, there are some plants they just don’t like. Some key points when considering plants:

if a plant makes them sick or is associated with a bad experience they will avoid it
how hungry they are … plants they don’t like may become much tastier than before
some individual deer may like plants that most do not
deer often avoid plants with a strong fragrance, fuzzy or prickly texture or bitter taste ~ often but not always

This Deer Resistant Plant list is composed from the personal observations of several local residents.

• Allium (Allium)
• Lily of the Valley (Converaria majalis)
• Angel’s Trumpet (Datura)
• Lupins (Lupinus)
• Brown/black eyed Susans (Rudbeckia)
• Lilacs (Syringa vulgarism)
• Butterfly weed (Asclepias)
• Lavender (Lavendula)
• Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
• Daphne (Papyricea)
• Cleome (Cleome)
• Blazing Star (Liatris)
• Cosmos (Cosmos)
• Marigolds (Tagetas)
• Daffodils (Narcissus)
• Monkshood (Aconite)
• Delphinium (Delphinium)
• Nicotiana (Nicotiana)
• Foxglove (Digitalis)
• Peonies (Paeonia Lactiflora)
• Globeflowers (Trollius)
• Rhubarb (Rhubarb)
• Goldenrod (Solidago vigaurea)
• Shasta Daisy (Laucanthemum)
• Iris (Iris)
• Valeriun (Valeriana officinalis)
• Juniper (Juniperas)
• Pines (Pinus)
• Spruce (Picea)

It has been suggested that Deer don’t like fuzzy leaves but they will on occasion eat lambs ears. They also don’t like aromatic plants but have been known to eat Artemesia. Often deer won’t eat prickly plants although they seem to like rosebushes. Deer don’t seem to eat ferns and various grasses and other wild plants which suggests they are good to grow.

These are more suggestions for growing plants that deer would not like to eat.

• ajuga
• alchemilla
• beebalm
• campanula
• catmint
• coneflower
• cranesbill
• cup plant
• euphorbias
• forget me not
• gaillardia
• helianthus
• hellebores
• liatris
• obedient plant
• sun drops
• tickseed
• yarrow

Deer Favourites

Trees, Shrubs, Vines:

Azaleas (Rhododendron spp.): Both deciduous & evergreen
English Ivy (Hedera helix)
Euonymus (Euonymus)
Fir (Abies spp.)
Hybrid Tea Roses (Rosa odorata hybrids)
Japanese Yews (Taxus cuspidata)
Mountain Ash (Sorbus spp.)

Vegetable Garden Plants:

Beans (Phaseolus spp.)
Blackberries, Raspberries (Rubus spp.)
Broccoli, Cauliflower (Brassica spp.)
Lettuce (Lactuca spp.)
Peas (Pisum satirum)
Strawberries (Fragaria spp.)
Sweet Corn (Zea mays)

Deterring Canada Geese

June 25, 2024

Did you know that the Canada goose is not native to the Haliburton region? Historically their nesting grounds were limited to the Arctic tundra, to the Western Prairies and to the grasslands and wetlands of southwest Ontario. They were nearly extinct 100 years ago because of overhunting and the drainage of wetlands. In the intervening years conservation efforts and government wildlife laws re-established their numbers in the millions.

Human settlement has also rapidly changed the once forested Ontario landscape to one of vast expanses of manicured grass, suburban sprawl and fields of corn and grain. With few predators and abundant food supply the exploding populations of Canada goose are overgrazing and despoiling the land and water. They are also taking over habitats once the preserve of native species of birds.

Geese leave large quantities of molted feathers and droppings, up to 2 kg per bird per day, which have health risks to humans and consequences for other species, the land and water. Competition for feeding and nesting material can also spread diseases such as botulism, cholera, or avian flu among geese. The habitat in our region did not evolve to support such a large bird species with its large brood and insatiable demand for food and space. The fragile ecosystem of the Canadian Shield is being negatively impacted by this large bird with a voracious appetite.

WHAT CAN WE DO?
Most animals are self-regulating and their population numbers will adjust to the habitat available. If you want to reduce the number of geese from the Highlands and restore species balance you need to make your property unattractive to them.The kindest and most effective way to do that is to change the landscape.They like to eat grass and they like wide open spaces so that they can keep an eye on any advancing predators. They are also suspicious of any shrubs that might provide cover for predators.

The first step is to plant a physical and visual barrier of shrubs along the water. A cost effective solution for a large area would be to use Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea) and Willow (Salix) cuttings purchased or taken from nearby plants in the very early spring. Ten to twelve inch cuttings can simply be stuck into the ground to a depth of 6”. The abundant rain and flooding of the riverbank will soon have them putting out roots. White Meadowsweet (Spirea alba) is readily available at nurseries and is another quick growing dense shrub to deter geese. For a year or so while your shrubs are maturing you’ll need a line with flags or flashing tape to prevent the geese from coming up out of the water onto your lawn. This barrier will only work for the 6 weeks, during July and August when the geese are molting and lose their flight feathers preventing them from flying. During the rest of the year they will simply fly over any barrier.

The second step at this stage is to interrupt the vast expanse of grass with shrubs, trees, and other plants, preferably native. A small grove of Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia), a medium growing shrub with showy spring flowers and an open branch structure would be a good choice for any location. You could incorporate a snaking path to the water if access is required.

It may take 2-3 years to fully vegetate your waterfront to deter the geese. Geese like to return to the same nesting location year after year so you’ll have to be vigilant if you have nesting geese on
your property.
It may take you some time to adjust to the more natural look, but you’ll rejoice when you’ve succeeded at eliminating the Canada Geese who were fouling your property, polluting your water and ousting the smaller native birds.

IN BRIEF
1. Deprive geese of the grass that

they like to eat and obscure their line of sight with plants
2. Design a narrow zig zag shaped walking path to the water
3. Reduce grass, mow less often and add native plants
4. Plant a continuous 30” high band of dense native plants along the shoreline as deep as you can (20-30 feet deep recommended but anything will help). These plantings will provide a physical barrier and with reduced site lines the geese will fear predators and stay away.
5. Erect a temporary barrier of two rows of line or reflective scare tape until the vegetation fills in.
6. Encourage aquatic plants such as bulrushes and cattails that work to deter geese.
7. Plant trees and understory shrubs to obstruct their overhead line of sight.

Carolyn Langdon, Master Gardener 2023

References:
https://www.canada.ca/en/environment-climate-change/services/migratory-bird-conservation/publications/handbook-managing-cackling-geese-southern/chapter-3.html#_toc070102
https://www.lesslawn.com/articles/article1034.html
https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Canada_Goose/lifehistory

Gardening in the Highlands

October 6, 2023

As many northern gardeners will agree there are challenges to gardening in the highlands. The impulse to keep trying speaks to the doggedness and persistence of the type of character who make this region their home or cottage.

As a gardener you’ll be up against:

Long, cold winters with drying winds
Variable summers of hot dry or cool wet weather
Short growing season and cool nights
Blackflies and mosquitoes
Nutrient poor and thin soils
No municipal water or limited well water
Pests like deer, bear, beaver, and turtles
Fewer sources of information for northern gardeners

There are benefits of gardening in the Highlands. There are the spectacular views and the ready-made stunning natural backdrop to one’s garden. You’re certain to have an upper story of native trees, an understory of native shrubs and herbaceous plants, and the contrast of a glittering lake, a burbling creek or an imposing rocky outcrop.

The Highlands are part of the Algonquin dome with the contour of the land sloping from a high point downwards to the east, west and south. The northern part of the county, often called the Algonquin Park Region is marginally cooler, dominated by coniferous forests, and poorer soils. The central and southern parts of the county called the Haliburton Slopes benefit from areas of underlying sedimentary limestone. Limestone contains calcium which can neutralize acid and benefit plants. If you happen to garden in one of these areas you have a bit of an edge. In general however Haliburton soils are acidic with a ph. of 6 or less and that’s because the subsoil is composed of ground-up granite rock of the Precambrian shield.

For information about growing zones please click here.

Canada’s most recent Plant Hardiness Zone map takes a wide range of climate variables into account, like minimum winter temperatures, maximum temperatures, rainfall, snow cover, wind, and elevation. In Canada, there are 10 zones, which are numbered from 0 to 9. The higher the zone number, the warmer the climate. Haliburton County is generally considered to be zone 4.

There may also be areas of exception or ‘micro climates’. Factors that contribute to microclimates may be nearby bodies of water, presence of concrete or stone, slopes, soil type, vegetation, or structures. For example, plantings close to a house that are sheltered from northern winds will do well so you might experiment with a plant rated for a warmer zone, like a zone 5. Read the plant tags when you are buying new plants to ensure they will survive year after year.

Beware of imported plants that have the US hardiness zone information on the tags. This is not equivalent to Canadian hardiness zones. As a general rule of thumb gardeners can simply add one zone to the designated USDA zone. For example, USDA zone 4 is roughly comparable to zone 5 in Canada. Buying locally and asking questions at your local garden centre will help alleviate this confusion.

If you want to overwinter perennials outdoors in containers, it’s best to sink them into the ground. This will protect your planter and the plants.

Invasive Species

May 25, 2023

A species is considered invasive if it has been introduced into the environment where it is not native and that has since become a nuisance through rapid spread, often to the detriment of native species. Invasive species arrived in Ontario generally through people who moved here and brought them from their native country. Information on six particular invasive species can be found below and under the Three Invasive Species Article.

Beware of Invasive Plants

There is perhaps a tendency to mistakenly think of plants as being “rooted in place”. However, their ever increasing ability to travel through direct and indirect human assistance to new habitats both near and far can be a blessing or a curse…depending upon just how successful they are in relocating and the resulting threat that success creates in displacing natural vegetation.

A plant that succeeds at the expense of natural or cultivated vegetation soon becomes identified as an “Invasive Species”. Invasive species are plants that are alien to their new habitat and have biological characteristics such as strong root and reproductive systems and vigorous growth habit that allow them to out- compete and eventually threaten the viability of native or cultivated plants. This can result in reduced biodiversity and alteration of natural habitats that then impact negatively on both native flora and fauna. Native species can be deemed invasive if changing environmental circumstances allow them to overtake other native species within their habitat such as the case with the Manitoba maple which in many areas of Canada is now considered an undesirable “weed tree”.

Invasive species tend to be most problematic in areas that have been “disturbed” through human activity. They become very difficult to control or eradicate through natural means and when the threat to native plant and animal populations, successful cultivation of cash crops or human enjoyment of natural areas is heightened, they become the focus of programs aimed at eradication or at least limiting their spread to other areas.

It is the responsibility of all gardeners to be aware of the “invasive status” of any plant they bring into their gardens and to ensure they do not inadvertently contribute to increasing the level of threat these invasive species bring to the health of our natural species and habitats.

View full article discussing Garlic Mustard, Bindweed and Dog Strangling Vine. While there hasn’t been a sighting of Dog Strangling vine in the highlands it has been located as far north as Bobcaygeon. Be on the lookout and eradicate it early before it becomes a problem.

For a more information about invasive species visit the Ontario Invasive Plant Council.

Download the Northern Ontario Grow Me Instead guide here.

Deer Me…

April 15, 2023

DEER PROOFING STRATEGIES

Many gardeners have their own deer-proofing ideas ~ from the bar of soap hanging from a tree to the group of aluminum foil plates or cds waving in the breeze. While some of these may work from time to time, for a while, there are other strategies that may have a longer lasting effect.

FENCING

Whitetail deer can jump at least 10 ft. (3 m) but an 8 ft. (2.5 m) fence should be ok; depending on the width of the garden. Expensive but reliable.

CHEMICAL DETERRENTS

For example, Coyote urine or various home-made recipes to spray on the leaves which can be found on the internet.
Recipes are based on combinations containing any of egg and/or milk with oil and a dash of dish detergent. Enhance with your choice of garlic or hot pepper sauce then age to disgusting (putrescent) and filter.
Commercial Products like Plantskydd and Bobbex do work if applied diligently and rotated. However, they are expensive.

It has been suggested that deer don’t like fuzzy leaves but they will, for example, eat Lambs Ears. They also may not like aromatic plants but have been known to eat Artemesia. Often deer won’t eat prickly plants although they seem to like Rosebushes.
Stinging Nettle and Thistles might be good to grow!
Native Plants have survived…
Deer will try anything once.

They prune apple trees and also eat all the apples they can reach.

Deer RESISTANT Plants

Allium (Allium spp.)
Bee Balm/Bergamot (Monarda)
Blazing Star (Liatris)
Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
Brown/black eyed Susans (Rudbeckia)
Butterfly weed (Asclepias)
Cleome (Cleome)
Coneflower (Echinacea)
Cosmos (Cosmos)
Daffodils (Narcissus spp.)
Dead Nettle (Lamium)
Delphinium (Delphinium)
Foxglove (Digitalis)
Globe Thistle (Echinops)
Goldenrod (Solidago)
Iris (Iris)
Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla)
Lavender (Lavendula)
Lupins (Lupinus)
Marigolds (Tagetas)
Monkshood (Aconite)
Nicotiana (Nicotiana)
Peonies (Paeonia Lactiflora)
Shasta Daisy (Laucanthemum)
Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)
Ferns, Grasses & Sedges
Rhubarb (Rheum rhubarbarum)
Highbush Cranberry (Viburnum)
Juniper (Juniperas)
Lilacs (Syringa vulgarism)
Spruce (Picea)

FAVOURITE Deer Plants

Deer have distinct preferences. The plants listed below are particular favourites of deer and may draw them into your garden. Unfortunately our favourites are often deer favourites!

Trees, Shrubs, Vines

Apples (Malus)
White Cedar (Arborvitae)
Azaleas (Rhododendron spp.): Both deciduous & evergreen
Roses (Rosas)
Sumac (Rhus typhina)

Vegetable Garden Plants

Beans (Phaseolus spp.)
Blackberries, Raspberries (Rubus spp.)
Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower (Brassica spp.)
Lettuce (Lactuca spp.)
Peas (Pisum satirum)
Strawberries (Fragaria spp.)
Sweet Corn (Zea mays spp.)

Herbaceous Ornamentals

Dahlias (Dahlia spp.)
Daylillies (Hemerocallis spp.)
Hostas (Hosta spp.)
Impatiens (Impatiens spp.)
Pansies (Viola x wittrockiana)
Phlox (Phlox spp.)
Spring Bulbs: Crocus (Crocus spp.) Tulips (Tulipa spp.)

Shoreline Restoration

April 8, 2022

The ribbon of land between the lake and cottage has undergone monumental changes since lake development began. Many cottage owners removed the natural vegetation at the shoreline in an attempt to urbanize the area. We now understand that this has disturbed the natural environment for wildlife as well as reducing the water quality of the lakes with serious repercussions for human health.

Shoreline protection and an understanding of how it affects waterways is critical for a variety of wildlife species including spawning fish, turtles and nesting waterfowl as well as terrestrial song birds and small mammals. A dense strip of native vegetation is an important buffer filtering snow and water runoff and preventing soil erosion and providing a continuous wildlife corridor.

Experts agree that preserving and restoring cottage shorelines with native vegetation is the best solution for water quality and long-term shoreline stability. This would be the way nature kept shorelines stable and our lakes and streams clean long before the impacts of human development. Native plants are those that occur naturally in a region in which they evolved. They are the ecological basis upon which life depends, including mammals, birds and people. Without them and the insects that co-evolved with them, local birds cannot survive. Native wildlife of all kinds is reduced when the land along the shoreline is paved, turfed, ornamented and exposed. Clear-cutting vegetation, creating steep slopes or mowing to the water’s edge come with consequences.

Sourcing native plants is a lot easier than it used to be. A list of native plant nurseries and resources is provided at the end of the document. The use of fertilizers encourages weeds to the detriment of native plants. Pesticides are detrimental to all living things including humans, aquatic and terrestrial life.

We have created a document that attempts to bring together in one place a description of many common native species that will grow in the Highlands (Zone4), including those that are likely to be available from area nurseries. This revised document also includes the native insects and wildlife that are attracted to native flora as well as some edible and medicinal information about the plants.

This document can be used to help property owners identify the native plants that are already growing on their land so they can ‘preserve’ them and secondly to help property owners choose which natives to purchase and plant in order to ‘restore’ their property.

Download PDF Version Here