Native Plants & Native Shorelines

Plants and Deer

August 3, 2024

White tail deer are common in the Highlands; we are living in their preferred habitat of mixed forest with open meadows. We all love to see these exquisite creatures until they start nibbling on our most precious plants, usually our favorites. Deer will eat almost anything if they are hungry, such as the first wild leeks of spring but they much prefer a salad buffet of non-native hostas.

Many gardeners have their own deer-proofing ideas ~ from the bar of soap hanging from a tree to a string of aluminum foil plates waving in the breeze. While some of these may work from time to time there are other strategies that may have a longer lasting effect.

These strategies include avoiding the deer favourite plants and choosing plants that deer generally don’t like.

It may seem like deer will eat anything, but in fact they have distinct preferences. The plants listed below are particular favourites of deer and may draw them into your garden. Unfortunately, our favourites are often deer favourites!

Deer Resistant Plants

Deer have an innate sense of determining what foods are good for them and what is not. They know the poisonous plants to avoid but like humans, there are some plants they just don’t like. Some key points when considering plants:

if a plant makes them sick or is associated with a bad experience they will avoid it
how hungry they are … plants they don’t like may become much tastier than before
some individual deer may like plants that most do not
deer often avoid plants with a strong fragrance, fuzzy or prickly texture or bitter taste ~ often but not always

This Deer Resistant Plant list is composed from the personal observations of several local residents.

• Allium (Allium)
• Lily of the Valley (Converaria majalis)
• Angel’s Trumpet (Datura)
• Lupins (Lupinus)
• Brown/black eyed Susans (Rudbeckia)
• Lilacs (Syringa vulgarism)
• Butterfly weed (Asclepias)
• Lavender (Lavendula)
• Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
• Daphne (Papyricea)
• Cleome (Cleome)
• Blazing Star (Liatris)
• Cosmos (Cosmos)
• Marigolds (Tagetas)
• Daffodils (Narcissus)
• Monkshood (Aconite)
• Delphinium (Delphinium)
• Nicotiana (Nicotiana)
• Foxglove (Digitalis)
• Peonies (Paeonia Lactiflora)
• Globeflowers (Trollius)
• Rhubarb (Rhubarb)
• Goldenrod (Solidago vigaurea)
• Shasta Daisy (Laucanthemum)
• Iris (Iris)
• Valeriun (Valeriana officinalis)
• Juniper (Juniperas)
• Pines (Pinus)
• Spruce (Picea)

It has been suggested that Deer don’t like fuzzy leaves but they will on occasion eat lambs ears. They also don’t like aromatic plants but have been known to eat Artemesia. Often deer won’t eat prickly plants although they seem to like rosebushes. Deer don’t seem to eat ferns and various grasses and other wild plants which suggests they are good to grow.

These are more suggestions for growing plants that deer would not like to eat.

• ajuga
• alchemilla
• beebalm
• campanula
• catmint
• coneflower
• cranesbill
• cup plant
• euphorbias
• forget me not
• gaillardia
• helianthus
• hellebores
• liatris
• obedient plant
• sun drops
• tickseed
• yarrow

Deer Favourites

Trees, Shrubs, Vines:

Azaleas (Rhododendron spp.): Both deciduous & evergreen
English Ivy (Hedera helix)
Euonymus (Euonymus)
Fir (Abies spp.)
Hybrid Tea Roses (Rosa odorata hybrids)
Japanese Yews (Taxus cuspidata)
Mountain Ash (Sorbus spp.)

Vegetable Garden Plants:

Beans (Phaseolus spp.)
Blackberries, Raspberries (Rubus spp.)
Broccoli, Cauliflower (Brassica spp.)
Lettuce (Lactuca spp.)
Peas (Pisum satirum)
Strawberries (Fragaria spp.)
Sweet Corn (Zea mays)

Deterring Canada Geese

June 25, 2024

Did you know that the Canada goose is not native to the Haliburton region? Historically their nesting grounds were limited to the Arctic tundra, to the Western Prairies and to the grasslands and wetlands of southwest Ontario. They were nearly extinct 100 years ago because of overhunting and the drainage of wetlands. In the intervening years conservation efforts and government wildlife laws re-established their numbers in the millions.

Human settlement has also rapidly changed the once forested Ontario landscape to one of vast expanses of manicured grass, suburban sprawl and fields of corn and grain. With few predators and abundant food supply the exploding populations of Canada goose are overgrazing and despoiling the land and water. They are also taking over habitats once the preserve of native species of birds.

Geese leave large quantities of molted feathers and droppings, up to 2 kg per bird per day, which have health risks to humans and consequences for other species, the land and water. Competition for feeding and nesting material can also spread diseases such as botulism, cholera, or avian flu among geese. The habitat in our region did not evolve to support such a large bird species with its large brood and insatiable demand for food and space. The fragile ecosystem of the Canadian Shield is being negatively impacted by this large bird with a voracious appetite.

WHAT CAN WE DO?
Most animals are self-regulating and their population numbers will adjust to the habitat available. If you want to reduce the number of geese from the Highlands and restore species balance you need to make your property unattractive to them.The kindest and most effective way to do that is to change the landscape.They like to eat grass and they like wide open spaces so that they can keep an eye on any advancing predators. They are also suspicious of any shrubs that might provide cover for predators.

The first step is to plant a physical and visual barrier of shrubs along the water. A cost effective solution for a large area would be to use Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea) and Willow (Salix) cuttings purchased or taken from nearby plants in the very early spring. Ten to twelve inch cuttings can simply be stuck into the ground to a depth of 6”. The abundant rain and flooding of the riverbank will soon have them putting out roots. White Meadowsweet (Spirea alba) is readily available at nurseries and is another quick growing dense shrub to deter geese. For a year or so while your shrubs are maturing you’ll need a line with flags or flashing tape to prevent the geese from coming up out of the water onto your lawn. This barrier will only work for the 6 weeks, during July and August when the geese are molting and lose their flight feathers preventing them from flying. During the rest of the year they will simply fly over any barrier.

The second step at this stage is to interrupt the vast expanse of grass with shrubs, trees, and other plants, preferably native. A small grove of Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia), a medium growing shrub with showy spring flowers and an open branch structure would be a good choice for any location. You could incorporate a snaking path to the water if access is required.

It may take 2-3 years to fully vegetate your waterfront to deter the geese. Geese like to return to the same nesting location year after year so you’ll have to be vigilant if you have nesting geese on
your property.
It may take you some time to adjust to the more natural look, but you’ll rejoice when you’ve succeeded at eliminating the Canada Geese who were fouling your property, polluting your water and ousting the smaller native birds.

IN BRIEF
1. Deprive geese of the grass that

they like to eat and obscure their line of sight with plants
2. Design a narrow zig zag shaped walking path to the water
3. Reduce grass, mow less often and add native plants
4. Plant a continuous 30” high band of dense native plants along the shoreline as deep as you can (20-30 feet deep recommended but anything will help). These plantings will provide a physical barrier and with reduced site lines the geese will fear predators and stay away.
5. Erect a temporary barrier of two rows of line or reflective scare tape until the vegetation fills in.
6. Encourage aquatic plants such as bulrushes and cattails that work to deter geese.
7. Plant trees and understory shrubs to obstruct their overhead line of sight.

Carolyn Langdon, Master Gardener 2023

References:
https://www.canada.ca/en/environment-climate-change/services/migratory-bird-conservation/publications/handbook-managing-cackling-geese-southern/chapter-3.html#_toc070102
https://www.lesslawn.com/articles/article1034.html
https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Canada_Goose/lifehistory

Gardening in the Highlands

October 6, 2023

As many northern gardeners will agree there are challenges to gardening in the highlands. The impulse to keep trying speaks to the doggedness and persistence of the type of character who make this region their home or cottage.

As a gardener you’ll be up against:

Long, cold winters with drying winds
Variable summers of hot dry or cool wet weather
Short growing season and cool nights
Blackflies and mosquitoes
Nutrient poor and thin soils
No municipal water or limited well water
Pests like deer, bear, beaver, and turtles
Fewer sources of information for northern gardeners

There are benefits of gardening in the Highlands. There are the spectacular views and the ready-made stunning natural backdrop to one’s garden. You’re certain to have an upper story of native trees, an understory of native shrubs and herbaceous plants, and the contrast of a glittering lake, a burbling creek or an imposing rocky outcrop.

The Highlands are part of the Algonquin dome with the contour of the land sloping from a high point downwards to the east, west and south. The northern part of the county, often called the Algonquin Park Region is marginally cooler, dominated by coniferous forests, and poorer soils. The central and southern parts of the county called the Haliburton Slopes benefit from areas of underlying sedimentary limestone. Limestone contains calcium which can neutralize acid and benefit plants. If you happen to garden in one of these areas you have a bit of an edge. In general however Haliburton soils are acidic with a ph. of 6 or less and that’s because the subsoil is composed of ground-up granite rock of the Precambrian shield.

For information about growing zones please click here.

Canada’s most recent Plant Hardiness Zone map takes a wide range of climate variables into account, like minimum winter temperatures, maximum temperatures, rainfall, snow cover, wind, and elevation. In Canada, there are 10 zones, which are numbered from 0 to 9. The higher the zone number, the warmer the climate. Haliburton County is generally considered to be zone 4.

There may also be areas of exception or ‘micro climates’. Factors that contribute to microclimates may be nearby bodies of water, presence of concrete or stone, slopes, soil type, vegetation, or structures. For example, plantings close to a house that are sheltered from northern winds will do well so you might experiment with a plant rated for a warmer zone, like a zone 5. Read the plant tags when you are buying new plants to ensure they will survive year after year.

Beware of imported plants that have the US hardiness zone information on the tags. This is not equivalent to Canadian hardiness zones. As a general rule of thumb gardeners can simply add one zone to the designated USDA zone. For example, USDA zone 4 is roughly comparable to zone 5 in Canada. Buying locally and asking questions at your local garden centre will help alleviate this confusion.

If you want to overwinter perennials outdoors in containers, it’s best to sink them into the ground. This will protect your planter and the plants.

Invasive Species

May 25, 2023

A species is considered invasive if it has been introduced into the environment where it is not native and that has since become a nuisance through rapid spread, often to the detriment of native species. Invasive species arrived in Ontario generally through people who moved here and brought them from their native country. Information on six particular invasive species can be found below and under the Three Invasive Species Article.

Beware of Invasive Plants

There is perhaps a tendency to mistakenly think of plants as being “rooted in place”. However, their ever increasing ability to travel through direct and indirect human assistance to new habitats both near and far can be a blessing or a curse…depending upon just how successful they are in relocating and the resulting threat that success creates in displacing natural vegetation.

A plant that succeeds at the expense of natural or cultivated vegetation soon becomes identified as an “Invasive Species”. Invasive species are plants that are alien to their new habitat and have biological characteristics such as strong root and reproductive systems and vigorous growth habit that allow them to out- compete and eventually threaten the viability of native or cultivated plants. This can result in reduced biodiversity and alteration of natural habitats that then impact negatively on both native flora and fauna. Native species can be deemed invasive if changing environmental circumstances allow them to overtake other native species within their habitat such as the case with the Manitoba maple which in many areas of Canada is now considered an undesirable “weed tree”.

Invasive species tend to be most problematic in areas that have been “disturbed” through human activity. They become very difficult to control or eradicate through natural means and when the threat to native plant and animal populations, successful cultivation of cash crops or human enjoyment of natural areas is heightened, they become the focus of programs aimed at eradication or at least limiting their spread to other areas.

It is the responsibility of all gardeners to be aware of the “invasive status” of any plant they bring into their gardens and to ensure they do not inadvertently contribute to increasing the level of threat these invasive species bring to the health of our natural species and habitats.

View full article discussing Garlic Mustard, Bindweed and Dog Strangling Vine. While there hasn’t been a sighting of Dog Strangling vine in the highlands it has been located as far north as Bobcaygeon. Be on the lookout and eradicate it early before it becomes a problem.

For a more information about invasive species visit the Ontario Invasive Plant Council.

Download the Northern Ontario Grow Me Instead guide here.

By-laws to Protect Native Vegetation

May 9, 2023

Before you take any serious site alteration to your property it’s important to consult your township and/or county office for guidance. If you see activity on a neighboring property that is concerning, you can also contact the County Conservation Bylaw Officer.

Development practices are altering our shorelines such that an important buffer of native vegetation along the shoreline has become fragmented. This fragmentation has a negative effect on water quality and the fish and wildlife that rely on this critical space where water touches land.

To manage what can be built or paved in that important buffer area, and recognizing the equal if not greater importance of the understory species that reinforce the tree layer, the County sought to put additional regulations in place to protect the shorelands and the quality of the water. *

Scientists agree that a 30-metre buffer of trees and underbrush is the minimum to protect water quality. More is better of course, and many waterfront residents do keep their entire properties vegetated with native species.

The new Shoreline Preservation By-law which was passed in April 2023 stipulates a buffer of 20 meters from the shoreline. Bylaws can be amended with improvements in the future. The township of Dysart et el is working on their own Shoreline by-law and it should be in place in 2023.

The County has a Shoreline Tree Preservation By-law that stipulates no cutting of trees with a diameter of 5 cm or within 30 metres of the shoreline.

Another little known by-law is the Haliburton County Forestry Conservation By-law that guides and restricts what landowners can do on properties of 4 hectares (9.88 acres) or more. This is an important bylaw because it applies to all types of properties not just waterfront lots.

Conservation Bylaw Officer
These bylaws are complaint driven so if you see any activity going on that you’re not sure complies with the bylaw call or email the County’s Conservation Bylaw Officer, James Rogers to discuss the situation with him. jrogers@haliburtoncounty.ca Tel. 705 457-6854.

* The vegetative layer beneath the tree canopy, the “brush” can contain 90% of the species in the forest and is vital to forest function. This layer shades tree roots, covers bare soil, influences the growth of tree seedlings, and discourages weeds. Its fallen foliage is higher in nutrients than decaying tree leaves. Shallow roots mat together to anchor the soil and intercept surface runoff. Deeper rooted plants also take up water and excess nutrients at levels just above the bedrock in areas with thin soil. Overhanging plants provide shade and cover for fish and other aquatic life. Native vegetation requires no harmful pesticides or fertilizers to thrive. Herbaceous plants are a source of nectar, pollen and nesting material for pollinating insects and birds. From the Master Gardeners’ Directory of Native Plants for your Property including Shorelines

Aquatic Plants of the Near Shoreline and Wetlands

May 9, 2023

If you have the good fortune to live close to a marsh you will be able to observe the comings and goings of the most biodiverse ecosystem on the planet. Wetlands are comparable to rainforests and coral reefs for the sheer number of plant and animal species that they support. Some people see swampy land as a breeding ground for mosquitoes with no inherent value. They itch to drain the land, fill the low spots and use it for agriculture, housing or industry. Around the world such practises have changed the climate, released tons of carbon into the air, extinguished untold animal species, created droughts, fouled the water, eroded shorelines and caused destructive and widespread flooding.

There are no bylaws to prevent the filling in of upper wetlands and even those along shorelines in Haliburton County have been allowed to be destroyed. Fortunately, a new Shoreline Preservation By- law will protect some of these shoreline wetlands and upland ponds but still much will remain under protected. Click here to read more about how local laws do and don’t protect forests and wetlands. The township of Minden has had the foresight to demarcate the wetland in the middle of their town as a park and put in a Boardwalk that is popular with walkers and photographers. And it’s a good thing because the damage to roads and properties due to three ‘state of emergency’ flood events in a recent six year period would have been a whole lot worse without the wetland.
The Minden marsh absorbs a great quantity of water during a torrential rainstorm. The water spreads out along low lying areas and the marshes slow and filter the water preventing the banks from overflowing and flooding. These and other marshes help to balance the level of water throughout the year within the Gull River watershed. The Minden Wetland also filters out pollutants and excess nutrients reducing the algae growth in Gull Lake and others downstream. Too much algae growth robs the lake of oxygen which can result in the death of fish and is a sign of a system badly out of balance. No one wants to live on a dead lake.

Value forests and vegetated shorelands
The forested hillsides and shorelands in our region also play a critical role in our health, safety and well-being. Forests filter and regulate the flow of water. Their leaves capture and slow the fall of rain to the forest floor, which acts like an enormous sponge, absorbing up to 46 centimetres (15 in) of precipitation before gradually releasing it to streams and recharging ground water. On average an untouched forest floor can absorb 2/3rds more rain than a cover of suburban turf.
If you have a low marshy area on your property, you could make it an attractive feature instead of filling it in. If it’s in a sunny area, you might want to plant blue eyed grass (Sisyrinchium) or the native bright red Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) If it receives shade how about planting a fernery. There are a number of native ferns and other moisture loving plants for sun, shade and the in between. For more plant descriptions please consult the Directory of Native Plants for Your Property including Shorelines as well as considering the list of plants below.

To choose the right plant for the right place we need to understand the shoreline zone and the littoral zone. The shoreline is where water meets the land and this line can fluctuate seasonally and as a result of the Trent Severn management of the dams in the over 600 lakes of Haliburton County. The plants in this zone we’ll call shoreline plants. The littoral zone is the near shore area where sunlight penetrates all the way to the bottom and allows aquatic plants to grow. In this zone we include three types of plants. Emergent plants, Floating plants and submerged plants

Diagram of the four types of aquatic plants:

1.Shoreline or Marginal Plants are found where water meets land. They like moist soil and seasonal flooding. (Blue flag iris, some shrubs and trees)
2. Standing Water or Emergent Plants have their roots in the soil under water but grow up and emerge out of the water.
3. Floating Plants float at or near the water surface and have either floating roots or roots in the soil at the bottom (eg. duckweed and lily pads)
4. Submerged Plants are completely underwater and have roots in the soil at the bottom. (e.g. pond weed and bladderwort)

Shoreline Plants are an important food source for pollinators like bees, birds, butterflies and moths. Since these plants grow tall, mammals and invertebrates like frogs use them to hide from predators. You will find descriptions of many plants suitable for shorelands such as the Blue Flag Iris, Meadowsweet, Boneset, Joe Pye Weed, Turtlehead, Swamp Milkweed, sedges, and ferns in the Directory of Native Plants. You will also want to peruse the article on Solutions for Erosion for a good selection of plants that can adapt to both wet and dry conditions.

If you’re looking for a taller ornamental shrub for the shoreline you can’t go wrong with our two native hollies.

Mountain holly (Nemopatthus mucronate) can often be found growing in full sun in wet areas. It can be naturalized in wet woodland landscapes, where it will form dense colonies. It will grow to 2 metres tall and 1 metre wide. The attractive red berries are an important food source for migrating birds and disappear quickly in autumn. Male and female plants are required for fruiting. Full sun required for good fruit production. Propagate by softwood cuttings.

Winterberry (Ibex verticillata) is a holly shrub 1-5 m tall so called because it retains its berries into winter unlike its close cousin the Mountain Holly. In wet sites, it will form a dense thicket, while in dry soil it will grow slowly into a smaller shrub. It has lovely glossy leaves, tiny flowers but beautiful red fruits that provide winter food for the American Robin and other birds. Male and female plants are required for fruiting. Full sun required for good fruit production. Propagate by softwood cuttings. Photo credit: SB_Johnny

Emergent Plants are important in providing a buffer from wind and wave action that can wash out shorelines. Waterfowl such as mallards and wood ducks feast on emergent plants. They also use their sturdy stems and leaves to build nests. Fish and insects also use these plants for cover and food.

Plants like Common Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) is a real showstopper with its fuzzy, golf ball shaped flowers which appear in August. It’s a fulsome spreading shrub or small tree that needs wet to moist conditions like those found in ponds and marsh areas. It thrives in sun to part sun. Ducks and other water birds and shorebirds consume the seeds and songbirds love the fruit. Butterflies, bees, and insects are attracted to the fragrant, nectar rich flowers. It also provides nesting habitat for songbirds and if we haven’t sold you on this plant yet it is deer resistant.

Tawny Bog Cotton (Eriophorum virginicum) is common in sphagnum bogs and wet ditches. This unique sedge is one of many cotton grass cultivars with a flower that has a white to tan bristly appearing but soft, cotton like mass 1 to 2 inches across. It blooms from June to September. The leaves are flat and grass like.

Wild Calla (Calla palustris) forms dense colonies and spreads by rhizomes. Blooming in late spring It has a lovely white flower followed by bright red berries. It can tolerate partial shade and grows from 20-30 cm tall.

Scirpus cyperinus and Scirpus validus are the most common species among the bulrushes. They grow in wet soil, full sun, or light shade. It’s good for erosion control when planted en masse. Bulrush forms a buffer against wind and wave action and protects other less robust aquatic plants to grow. It has a lovely woolly head and not to be confused with cattails.

Sweet Flag (Acorus americanus) grows to 30 cm tall in full sun. It can form stands of sword-shaped, stemless leaves similar to Iris leaves but with an understated furry flower that emerges from a stiff spath. The “sweet” in the name comes from the scent the leaves give off when broken. Rhizomes allow a plant to die back and survive the winter.

Picture of Pickerelweed — Pickerelweed with small floating Duckweed Photo credit: The Cosmonaut

Pickerelweed (Pontederia cordata) has heart shaped leaves and showy deep blue spikes of flowers grows to 30 cm tall.

Arrowhead (Sagittaria latifolia) The leaf is arrowhead shaped and in mid summer a lovely white flower emerges. It grows in calm waters and its rhizome was eaten by local tribes.

Cattails (Typha latifolia) are widely recognized as a 2-meter-tall water loving plant that bears a brown fruiting head that looks like a hotdog on the top of its study stalk. It’s sword shaped leaves rustle in the breeze and turn yellow brown in autumn. Their root systems help prevent erosion. They provide protection and nesting habitat for many birds, reptiles, insects and animals. Their “nutlet” seed fruits are an important food for many species of insects and that then become food for other species. They also provided important food source for local tribes.

Floating Plants help keep algae in balance by absorbing nutrients, blocking light and cooling the water. These same factors provide an underwater habitat perfect for fish hunting for water insects. They provide landing places for mosquito loving dragonflies and other insects and invertebrates.

Yellow Pond Lily (Nuphar variegate) will do well in quiet or gently flowing waters up to 2 metres deep. The flat oval shaped leaves float on the surface. A single yellow globe-shaped flower borne on a stout stalk proudly protrudes above the water. Propagate by seed or divide the rhizomes in late spring.

White Water Lily (Nymphaea odorata) has flat round leaves that float on the surface of quiet or gently flowing waters up to 2 meters deep. Blooming all summer, the showy flowers are large, fragrant with multiple white pointed petals and a centre of golden stamens. Propagate by seed or divide the rhizomes in late spring.

Duckweed or water lentils (Lemna minor)
This tiny little floating plant can quickly cover the surface of a small pond. It’s valued for improving water quality and it often used to treat wastewater because of its ability to absorb high amounts of nitrogen and phosphorous. It’s also grown commercially for cattle feed because of its high protein (45%) and fat content (4%).

Submerged Plants like Pondweed (Elodea canadensis) are excellent oxygenators that absorb excess nutrients from the water and release oxygen that helps to clean the water and prevent the overgrowth of algae. Fish use this habitat to make nests and to hide from prey while on the hunt. These plants are also food for ducks and muskrat. All rooted plants help keep the sediment at the bottom of a lake and buffer harmful wave action.

Carolyn Langdon, Master Gardeners 2023
Resource:
HHLT Guidelines on Protecting Wetlands
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