Haliburton County Master Gardeners
Gardening in Haliburton County
There are many good reasons to maintain a backbone of native plants with the exotic ornamental plants acting as accent or highlight plantings, particularly along shorelines. Use this 75 page directory to identify the natives you have and others you may wish to plant.
White tail deer are common in the Highlands; we are living in their preferred habitat of mixed forest with open meadows. We all love to see these exquisite creatures until they start nibbling on our most precious plants, usually our favorites. Deer will eat almost anything if they are hungry, such as the first wild leeks of spring but they much prefer a salad buffet of non-native hostas.
Many gardeners have their own deer-proofing ideas ~ from the bar of soap hanging from a tree to a string of aluminum foil plates waving in the breeze. While some of these may work from time to time there are other strategies that may have a longer lasting effect.
These strategies include avoiding the deer favourite plants and choosing plants that deer generally don’t like.
It may seem like deer will eat anything, but in fact they have distinct preferences. The plants listed below are particular favourites of deer and may draw them into your garden. Unfortunately, our favourites are often deer favourites!
Deer have an innate sense of determining what foods are good for them and what is not. They know the poisonous plants to avoid but like humans, there are some plants they just don’t like. Some key points when considering plants:
This Deer Resistant Plant list is composed from the personal observations of several local residents.
• Allium (Allium)
• Lily of the Valley (Converaria majalis)
• Angel’s Trumpet (Datura)
• Lupins (Lupinus)
• Brown/black eyed Susans (Rudbeckia)
• Lilacs (Syringa vulgarism)
• Butterfly weed (Asclepias)
• Lavender (Lavendula)
• Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
• Daphne (Papyricea)
• Cleome (Cleome)
• Blazing Star (Liatris)
• Cosmos (Cosmos)
• Marigolds (Tagetas)
• Daffodils (Narcissus)
• Monkshood (Aconite)
• Delphinium (Delphinium)
• Nicotiana (Nicotiana)
• Foxglove (Digitalis)
• Peonies (Paeonia Lactiflora)
• Globeflowers (Trollius)
• Rhubarb (Rhubarb)
• Goldenrod (Solidago vigaurea)
• Shasta Daisy (Laucanthemum)
• Iris (Iris)
• Valeriun (Valeriana officinalis)
• Juniper (Juniperas)
• Pines (Pinus)
• Spruce (Picea)
It has been suggested that Deer don’t like fuzzy leaves but they will on occasion eat lambs ears. They also don’t like aromatic plants but have been known to eat Artemesia. Often deer won’t eat prickly plants although they seem to like rosebushes. Deer don’t seem to eat ferns and various grasses and other wild plants which suggests they are good to grow.
These are more suggestions for growing plants that deer would not like to eat.
• ajuga
• alchemilla
• beebalm
• campanula
• catmint
• coneflower
• cranesbill
• cup plant
• euphorbias
• forget me not
• gaillardia
• helianthus
• hellebores
• liatris
• obedient plant
• sun drops
• tickseed
• yarrow
It may seem like deer will eat anything, but in fact they have distinct preferences. The plants listed below are particular favourites of deer and may draw them into your garden. Unfortunately our favourites are often deer favourites!
Trees, Shrubs, Vines:
Azaleas (Rhododendron spp.): Both deciduous & evergreen
English Ivy (Hedera helix)
Euonymus (Euonymus)
Fir (Abies spp.)
Hybrid Tea Roses (Rosa odorata hybrids)
Japanese Yews (Taxus cuspidata)
Mountain Ash (Sorbus spp.)
Vegetable Garden Plants:
Beans (Phaseolus spp.)
Blackberries, Raspberries (Rubus spp.)
Broccoli, Cauliflower (Brassica spp.)
Lettuce (Lactuca spp.)
Peas (Pisum satirum)
Strawberries (Fragaria spp.)
Sweet Corn (Zea mays)
Did you know that the Canada goose is not native to the Haliburton region? Historically their nesting grounds were limited to the Arctic tundra, to the Western Prairies and to the grasslands and wetlands of southwest Ontario. They were nearly extinct 100 years ago because of overhunting and the drainage of wetlands. In the intervening years conservation efforts and government wildlife laws re-established their numbers in the millions.
Human settlement has also rapidly changed the once forested Ontario landscape to one of vast expanses of manicured grass, suburban sprawl and fields of corn and grain. With few predators and abundant food supply the exploding populations of Canada goose are overgrazing and despoiling the land and water. They are also taking over habitats once the preserve of native species of birds.
Geese leave large quantities of molted feathers and droppings, up to 2 kg per bird per day, which have health risks to humans and consequences for other species, the land and water. Competition for feeding and nesting material can also spread diseases such as botulism, cholera, or avian flu among geese. The habitat in our region did not evolve to support such a large bird species with its large brood and insatiable demand for food and space. The fragile ecosystem of the Canadian Shield is being negatively impacted by this large bird with a voracious appetite.
WHAT CAN WE DO?
Most animals are self-regulating and their population numbers will adjust to the habitat available. If you want to reduce the number of geese from the Highlands and restore species balance you need to make your property unattractive to them.The kindest and most effective way to do that is to change the landscape.They like to eat grass and they like wide open spaces so that they can keep an eye on any advancing predators. They are also suspicious of any shrubs that might provide cover for predators.
The first step is to plant a physical and visual barrier of shrubs along the water. A cost effective solution for a large area would be to use Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea) and Willow (Salix) cuttings purchased or taken from nearby plants in the very early spring. Ten to twelve inch cuttings can simply be stuck into the ground to a depth of 6”. The abundant rain and flooding of the riverbank will soon have them putting out roots. White Meadowsweet (Spirea alba) is readily available at nurseries and is another quick growing dense shrub to deter geese. For a year or so while your shrubs are maturing you’ll need a line with flags or flashing tape to prevent the geese from coming up out of the water onto your lawn. This barrier will only work for the 6 weeks, during July and August when the geese are molting and lose their flight feathers preventing them from flying. During the rest of the year they will simply fly over any barrier.
The second step at this stage is to interrupt the vast expanse of grass with shrubs, trees, and other plants, preferably native. A small grove of Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia), a medium growing shrub with showy spring flowers and an open branch structure would be a good choice for any location. You could incorporate a snaking path to the water if access is required.
It may take 2-3 years to fully vegetate your waterfront to deter the geese. Geese like to return to the same nesting location year after year so you’ll have to be vigilant if you have nesting geese on
your property.
It may take you some time to adjust to the more natural look, but you’ll rejoice when you’ve succeeded at eliminating the Canada Geese who were fouling your property, polluting your water and ousting the smaller native birds.
IN BRIEF
1. Deprive geese of the grass that
they like to eat and obscure their line of sight with plants
2. Design a narrow zig zag shaped walking path to the water
3. Reduce grass, mow less often and add native plants
4. Plant a continuous 30” high band of dense native plants along the shoreline as deep as you can (20-30 feet deep recommended but anything will help). These plantings will provide a physical barrier and with reduced site lines the geese will fear predators and stay away.
5. Erect a temporary barrier of two rows of line or reflective scare tape until the vegetation fills in.
6. Encourage aquatic plants such as bulrushes and cattails that work to deter geese.
7. Plant trees and understory shrubs to obstruct their overhead line of sight.
Carolyn Langdon, Master Gardener 2023
References:
https://www.canada.ca/en/environment-climate-change/services/migratory-bird-conservation/publications/handbook-managing-cackling-geese-southern/chapter-3.html#_toc070102
https://www.lesslawn.com/articles/article1034.html
https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Canada_Goose/lifehistory
You are what you eat! In this day and age when increasing attention is paid to the quality of the food we eat, more and more people want to grow their own food. As a hallmark for sustainable farming, crop rotation minimizes problems down the road while preserving soil structure and health.
Crop rotation is not just for the farmers. It can be put to use in small plots of land as well. By rotating crops each season; we promote a natural method of pest control which helps to break disease cycles that can occur when the same crop is grown in the same spot for successive years. For example, Clubroot is a soil borne fungus that affects brassicas, and accumulates from successive growth in the same location. Mono cropping also depletes the soil of nutrients specific to that crop. In the same way our bodies can ache if we do the same thing over and over, the soil can get tired if we plant the same vegetable, year after year in the same spot.
Simply put, crop rotation requires you to avoid growing the same crop in the same spot year after year. Plant your like family vegetables in a different spot than the previous year and rotate your different crops like a cycle. It’s helpful that some vegetables will replenish lost nutrients back to the soil after a crop has been harvested. It helps to grow legumes after heavy feeders like corn or leafy vegetables. While you’re at it, add in some green manure like clover to enrich the soil. No matter what vegetables you are growing, there are many rotations to suit your needs. You decide!
Remember that any crop rotation is a work in progress, and much of the enjoyment and challenge comes from experimenting with it each year as you learn from previous years. By keeping in mind a few things, it will make it much easier to work out a suitable rotation for you.
Some basic types of groupings that may work for you include: heavy feeders (broccoli, lettuce, tomatoes, eggplant, corn, squash); light feeders (carrots, turnips, sweet potatoes, peppers, garlic, onions, chives); nitrogen fixing (soil builders – green beans, lima beans, peas, soybeans); green manures (clover, vetch, alfalfa, rye, buckwheat).
Article written by Shane Rajapakse for the MGOI newsletter and reprinted here with permission.
Editor’s Note: More gardeners are practicing a technique called chop and drop. Essentially you cut back your weeds and grasses before they go to seed and leave them on your garden as green manure mulch. The nutrients are available immediately to the plants and the mulch helps the soil to retain moisture, repress weeds and improve soil structure.
Excerpt from OMAFRA Publication 505 ‘Ontario Weeds’
It is essential that Goldenrod, Solidago spp., [verge d’or, solidage], not be confused with Common ragweed. Several species of Goldenrod occur throughout Ontario in meadows, pastures, woodland, river flats and roadsides, and have very conspicuous bright yellow inflorescences during the ragweed hayfever season of late summer and autumn. Goldenrods do produce pollen but only in small quantities, and their pollen is heavy and sticky. It is not carried on the wind and the plants are pollinated by insects. Because Goldenrod pollen is not carried on the wind, it must not be blamed as the source of irritation for ragweed hay fever sufferers.
Common ragweed is the most important cause of hay fever during August and September. Although inconspicuous and not recognized by most people, the tiny male flower beads hanging on their slender stalks produce huge quantities of very light pollen. As the pollen falls from these hanging flowers, it is caught by the wind and may be carried for distances greater than 200 km (125 miles). Hay fever sufferers, therefore, may be affected by pollen from ragweed plants far away.
As many northern gardeners will agree there are challenges to gardening in the highlands. The impulse to keep trying speaks to the doggedness and persistence of the type of character who make this region their home or cottage.
As a gardener you’ll be up against:
There are benefits of gardening in the Highlands. There are the spectacular views and the ready-made stunning natural backdrop to one’s garden. You’re certain to have an upper story of native trees, an understory of native shrubs and herbaceous plants, and the contrast of a glittering lake, a burbling creek or an imposing rocky outcrop.
The Highlands are part of the Algonquin dome with the contour of the land sloping from a high point downwards to the east, west and south. The northern part of the county, often called the Algonquin Park Region is marginally cooler, dominated by coniferous forests, and poorer soils. The central and southern parts of the county called the Haliburton Slopes benefit from areas of underlying sedimentary limestone. Limestone contains calcium which can neutralize acid and benefit plants. If you happen to garden in one of these areas you have a bit of an edge. In general however Haliburton soils are acidic with a ph. of 6 or less and that’s because the subsoil is composed of ground-up granite rock of the Precambrian shield.
For information about growing zones please click here.
Canada’s most recent Plant Hardiness Zone map takes a wide range of climate variables into account, like minimum winter temperatures, maximum temperatures, rainfall, snow cover, wind, and elevation. In Canada, there are 10 zones, which are numbered from 0 to 9. The higher the zone number, the warmer the climate. Haliburton County is generally considered to be zone 4.
There may also be areas of exception or ‘micro climates’. Factors that contribute to microclimates may be nearby bodies of water, presence of concrete or stone, slopes, soil type, vegetation, or structures. For example, plantings close to a house that are sheltered from northern winds will do well so you might experiment with a plant rated for a warmer zone, like a zone 5. Read the plant tags when you are buying new plants to ensure they will survive year after year.
Beware of imported plants that have the US hardiness zone information on the tags. This is not equivalent to Canadian hardiness zones. As a general rule of thumb gardeners can simply add one zone to the designated USDA zone. For example, USDA zone 4 is roughly comparable to zone 5 in Canada. Buying locally and asking questions at your local garden centre will help alleviate this confusion.
If you want to overwinter perennials outdoors in containers, it’s best to sink them into the ground. This will protect your planter and the plants.
