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Gardening with Nature

Aquatic Plants of the Near Shoreline and Wetlands *

May 9, 2023

If you have the good fortune to live close to a marsh you will be able to observe the comings and goings of the most biodiverse ecosystem on the planet. Wetlands are comparable to rainforests and coral reefs for the sheer number of plant and animal species that they support. Some people see swampy land as a breeding ground for mosquitoes with no inherent value. They itch to drain the land, fill the low spots and use it for agriculture, housing or industry. Around the world such practises have changed the climate, released tons of carbon into the air, extinguished untold animal species, created droughts, fouled the water, eroded shorelines and caused destructive and widespread flooding.

There are no bylaws to prevent the filling in of upper wetlands and even those along shorelines in Haliburton County have been allowed to be destroyed. Fortunately, a new Shoreline Preservation By- law will protect some of these shoreline wetlands and upland ponds but still much will remain under protected. Click here to read more about how local laws do and don’t protect forests and wetlands. The township of Minden has had the foresight to demarcate the wetland in the middle of their town as a park and put in a Boardwalk that is popular with walkers and photographers. And it’s a good thing because the damage to roads and properties due to three ‘state of emergency’ flood events in a recent six year period would have been a whole lot worse without the wetland.
The Minden marsh absorbs a great quantity of water during a torrential rainstorm. The water spreads out along low lying areas and the marshes slow and filter the water preventing the banks from overflowing and flooding. These and other marshes help to balance the level of water throughout the year within the Gull River watershed. The Minden Wetland also filters out pollutants and excess nutrients reducing the algae growth in Gull Lake and others downstream. Too much algae growth robs the lake of oxygen which can result in the death of fish and is a sign of a system badly out of balance. No one wants to live on a dead lake.

Value forests and vegetated shorelands
The forested hillsides and shorelands in our region also play a critical role in our health, safety and well-being. Forests filter and regulate the flow of water. Their leaves capture and slow the fall of rain to the forest floor, which acts like an enormous sponge, absorbing up to 46 centimetres (15 in) of precipitation before gradually releasing it to streams and recharging ground water. On average an untouched forest floor can absorb 2/3rds more rain than a cover of suburban turf.
If you have a low marshy area on your property, you could make it an attractive feature instead of filling it in. If it’s in a sunny area, you might want to plant blue eyed grass (Sisyrinchium) or the native bright red Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) If it receives shade how about planting a fernery. There are a number of native ferns and other moisture loving plants for sun, shade and the in between. For more plant descriptions please consult the Directory of Native Plants for Your Property including Shorelines as well as considering the list of plants below.

To choose the right plant for the right place we need to understand the shoreline zone and the littoral zone. The shoreline is where water meets the land and this line can fluctuate seasonally and as a result of the Trent Severn management of the dams in the over 600 lakes of Haliburton County. The plants in this zone we’ll call shoreline plants. The littoral zone is the near shore area where sunlight penetrates all the way to the bottom and allows aquatic plants to grow. In this zone we include three types of plants. Emergent plants, Floating plants and submerged plants

Diagram of the four types of aquatic plants:

Four types of Aquatic Plants

1.Shoreline or Marginal Plants are found where water meets land. They like moist soil and seasonal flooding. (Blue flag iris, some shrubs and trees)
2. Standing Water or Emergent Plants have their roots in the soil under water but grow up and emerge out of the water.
3. Floating Plants float at or near the water surface and have either floating roots or roots in the soil at the bottom (eg. duckweed and lily pads)
4. Submerged Plants are completely underwater and have roots in the soil at the bottom. (e.g. pond weed and bladderwort)

Shoreline Plants are an important food source for pollinators like bees, birds, butterflies and moths. Since these plants grow tall, mammals and invertebrates like frogs use them to hide from predators. You will find descriptions of many plants suitable for shorelands such as the Blue Flag Iris, Meadowsweet, Boneset, Joe Pye Weed, Turtlehead, Swamp Milkweed, sedges, and ferns in the Directory of Native Plants. You will also want to peruse the article on Solutions for Erosion for a good selection of plants that can adapt to both wet and dry conditions.

If you’re looking for a taller ornamental shrub for the shoreline you can’t go wrong with our two native hollies.

Mountain HollyMountain holly (Nemopatthus mucronate) can often be found growing in full sun in wet areas. It can be naturalized in wet woodland landscapes, where it will form dense colonies. It will grow to 2 metres tall and 1 metre wide. The attractive red berries are an important food source for migrating birds and disappear quickly in autumn. Male and female plants are required for fruiting. Full sun required for good fruit production. Propagate by softwood cuttings.

Picture of WinterberryWinterberry (Ibex verticillata) is a holly shrub 1-5 m tall so called because it retains its berries into winter unlike its close cousin the Mountain Holly. In wet sites, it will form a dense thicket, while in dry soil it will grow slowly into a smaller shrub. It has lovely glossy leaves, tiny flowers but beautiful red fruits that provide winter food for the American Robin and other birds. Male and female plants are required for fruiting. Full sun required for good fruit production. Propagate by softwood cuttings. Photo credit: SB_Johnny

Emergent Plants are important in providing a buffer from wind and wave action that can wash out shorelines. Waterfowl such as mallards and wood ducks feast on emergent plants. They also use their sturdy stems and leaves to build nests. Fish and insects also use these plants for cover and food.

Picture of Common Buttonbush
Plants like Common Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) is a real showstopper with its fuzzy, golf ball shaped flowers which appear in August. It’s a fulsome spreading shrub or small tree that needs wet to moist conditions like those found in ponds and marsh areas. It thrives in sun to part sun. Ducks and other water birds and shorebirds consume the seeds and songbirds love the fruit. Butterflies, bees, and insects are attracted to the fragrant, nectar rich flowers. It also provides nesting habitat for songbirds and if we haven’t sold you on this plant yet it is deer resistant.

Tawny Bog Cotton (Eriophorum virginicum) is common in sphagnum bogs and wet ditches. This unique sedge is one of many cotton grass cultivars with a flower that has a white to tan bristly appearing but soft, cotton like mass 1 to 2 inches across. It blooms from June to September. The leaves are flat and grass like.

Picture of Wild Calla
Wild Calla

Wild Calla (Calla palustris) forms dense colonies and spreads by rhizomes. Blooming in late spring It has a lovely white flower followed by bright red berries. It can tolerate partial shade and grows from 20-30 cm tall.

Scirpus cyperinus and Scirpus validus are the most common species among the bulrushes. They grow in wet soil, full sun, or light shade. It’s good for erosion control when planted en masse. Bulrush forms a buffer against wind and wave action and protects other less robust aquatic plants to grow. It has a lovely woolly head and not to be confused with cattails.

Sweet Flag (Acorus americanus) grows to 30 cm tall in full sun. It can form stands of sword-shaped, stemless leaves similar to Iris leaves but with an understated furry flower that emerges from a stiff spath. The “sweet” in the name comes from the scent the leaves give off when broken. Rhizomes allow a plant to die back and survive the winter.

Picture of Pickerelweed
Pickerelweed with small floating Duckweed Photo credit: The Cosmonaut

Pickerelweed (Pontederia cordata) has heart shaped leaves and showy deep blue spikes of flowers grows to 30 cm tall.

Arrowhead (Sagittaria latifolia) The leaf is arrowhead shaped and in mid summer a lovely white flower emerges. It grows in calm waters and its rhizome was eaten by local tribes.

Cattails (Typha latifolia) are widely recognized as a 2-meter-tall water loving plant that bears a brown fruiting head that looks like a hotdog on the top of its study stalk. It’s sword shaped leaves rustle in the breeze and turn yellow brown in autumn. Their root systems help prevent erosion. They provide protection and nesting habitat for many birds, reptiles, insects and animals. Their “nutlet” seed fruits are an important food for many species of insects and that then become food for other species. They also provided important food source for local tribes.

Floating Plants help keep algae in balance by absorbing nutrients, blocking light and cooling the water. These same factors provide an underwater habitat perfect for fish hunting for water insects. They provide landing places for mosquito loving dragonflies and other insects and invertebrates.

Yellow Pond Lily (Nuphar variegate) will do well in quiet or gently flowing waters up to 2 metres deep. The flat oval shaped leaves float on the surface. A single yellow globe-shaped flower borne on a stout stalk proudly protrudes above the water. Propagate by seed or divide the rhizomes in late spring.

White Water Lily (Nymphaea odorata) has flat round leaves that float on the surface of quiet or gently flowing waters up to 2 meters deep. Blooming all summer, the showy flowers are large, fragrant with multiple white pointed petals and a centre of golden stamens. Propagate by seed or divide the rhizomes in late spring.

Duckweed or water lentils (Lemna minor)
This tiny little floating plant can quickly cover the surface of a small pond. It’s valued for improving water quality and it often used to treat wastewater because of its ability to absorb high amounts of nitrogen and phosphorous. It’s also grown commercially for cattle feed because of its high protein (45%) and fat content (4%).

Submerged Plants like Pondweed (Elodea canadensis) are excellent oxygenators that absorb excess nutrients from the water and release oxygen that helps to clean the water and prevent the overgrowth of algae. Fish use this habitat to make nests and to hide from prey while on the hunt. These plants are also food for ducks and muskrat. All rooted plants help keep the sediment at the bottom of a lake and buffer harmful wave action.

 

Carolyn Langdon, Master Gardeners 2023
Resource:
HHLT Guidelines on Protecting Wetlands
chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://www.haliburtonlandtrust.ca/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/HHLT_WetlandsBooklet-V4-2020-01-011.pdf

Deterring Canada Geese*

May 1, 2023

Did you know that the Canada goose is not native to the Haliburton region? Historically their nesting grounds were limited to the Arctic tundra, to the Western Prairies and to the grasslands and wetlands of southwest Ontario. They were nearly extinct 100 years ago because of overhunting and the drainage of wetlands. In the intervening years conservation efforts and government wildlife laws re-established their numbers in the millions.

Canada GeeseHuman settlement has also rapidly changed the once forested Ontario landscape to one of vast expanses of manicured grass, suburban sprawl and fields of corn and grain. With few predators and abundant food supply the exploding populations of Canada goose are overgrazing and despoiling the land and water. They are also taking over habitats once the preserve of native species of birds.

Geese leave large quantities of molted feathers and droppings, up to 2 kg per bird per day, which have health risks to humans and consequences for other species, the land and water. Competition for feeding and nesting material can also spread diseases such as botulism, cholera, or avian flu among geese. The habitat in our region did not evolve to support such a large bird species with its large brood and insatiable demand for food and space. The fragile ecosystem of the Canadian Shield is being negatively impacted by this large bird with a voracious appetite.

WHAT CAN WE DO?
Most animals are self-regulating and their population numbers will adjust to the habitat available. If you want to reduce the number of geese from the Highlands and restore species balance you need to make your property unattractive to them.The kindest and most effective way to do that is to change the landscape.They like to eat grass and they like wide open spaces so that they can keep an eye on any advancing predators. They are also suspicious of any shrubs that might provide cover for predators.

The first step is to plant a physical and visual barrier of shrubs along the water. A cost effective solution for a large area would be to use Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea) and Willow (Salix) cuttings purchased or taken from nearby plants in the very early spring. Ten to twelve inch cuttings can simply be stuck into the ground to a depth of 6”. The abundant rain and flooding of the riverbank will soon have them putting out roots. White Meadowsweet (Spirea alba) is readily available at nurseries and is another quick growing dense shrub to deter geese. For a year or so while your shrubs are maturing you’ll need a line with flags or flashing tape to prevent the geese from coming up out of the water onto your lawn. This barrier will only work for the 6 weeks, during July and August when the geese are molting and lose their flight feathers preventing them from flying. During the rest of the year they will simply fly over any barrier.Vegetation on Shoreline

 

The second step at this stage is to interrupt the vast expanse of grass with shrubs, trees, and other plants, preferably native. A small grove of Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia), a medium growing shrub with showy spring flowers and an open branch structure would be a good choice for any location. You could incorporate a snaking path to the water if access is required.

It may take 2-3 years to fully vegetate your waterfront to deter the geese. Geese like to return to the same nesting location year after year so you’ll have to be vigilant if you have nesting geese on
your property.
It may take you some time to adjust to the more natural look, but you’ll rejoice when you’ve succeeded at eliminating the Canada Geese who were fouling your property, polluting your water and ousting the smaller native birds.

IN BRIEF
1. Deprive geese of the grass that

Zig Zag path to water at Walling Wall
Zig Zag path to water at Walling Wall

they like to eat and obscure their line of sight with plants
2. Design a narrow zig zag shaped walking path to the water
3. Reduce grass, mow less often and add native plants
4. Plant a continuous 30” high band of dense native plants along the shoreline as deep as you can (20-30 feet deep recommended but anything will help). These plantings will provide a physical barrier and with reduced site lines the geese will fear predators and stay away.
5. Erect a temporary barrier of two rows of line or reflective scare tape until the vegetation fills in.
6. Encourage aquatic plants such as bulrushes and cattails that work to deter geese.
7. Plant trees and understory shrubs to obstruct their overhead line of sight.

 

Carolyn Langdon, Master Gardener 2023

References:
https://www.canada.ca/en/environment-climate-change/services/migratory-bird-conservation/publications/handbook-managing-cackling-geese-southern/chapter-3.html#_toc070102
https://www.lesslawn.com/articles/article1034.html
https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Canada_Goose/lifehistory

Deer Me…*

April 30, 2023

Deer In Winter

DEER PROOFING STRATEGIES

Many gardeners have their own deer-proofing ideas ~ from the bar of soap hanging from a tree to the group of aluminum foil plates or cds waving in the breeze. While some of these may work from time to time, for a while, there are other strategies that may have a longer lasting effect.

FENCING

Whitetail deer can jump at least 10 ft. (3 m) but an 8 ft. (2.5 m) fence should be ok; depending on the width of the garden. Expensive but reliable.

CHEMICAL DETERRENTS

For example, Coyote urine or various home-made recipes to spray on the leaves which can be found on the internet.
Recipes are based on combinations containing any of egg and/or milk with oil and a dash of dish detergent. Enhance with your choice of garlic or hot pepper sauce then age to disgusting (putrescent) and filter.
Commercial Products like Plantskydd and Bobbex do work if applied diligently and rotated. However, they are expensive.

It has been suggested that deer don’t like fuzzy leaves but they will, for example, eat Lambs Ears. They also may not like aromatic plants but have been known to eat Artemesia. Often deer won’t eat prickly plants although they seem to like Rosebushes.
Stinging Nettle and Thistles might be good to grow!
Native Plants have survived…
Deer will try anything once.

They prune apple trees and also eat all the apples they can reach.

Deer Eating Apples

Deer RESISTANT Plants

  • Allium (Allium spp.)
  • Bee Balm/Bergamot (Monarda)
  • Blazing Star (Liatris)
  • Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
  • Brown/black eyed Susans (Rudbeckia)
  • Butterfly weed (Asclepias)
  • Cleome (Cleome)
  • Coneflower (Echinacea)
  • Cosmos (Cosmos)
  • Daffodils (Narcissus spp.)
  • Dead Nettle (Lamium)
  • Delphinium (Delphinium)
  • Foxglove (Digitalis)
  • Globe Thistle (Echinops)
  • Goldenrod (Solidago)
  • Iris (Iris)
  • Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla)
  • Lavender (Lavendula)
  • Lupins (Lupinus)
  • Marigolds (Tagetas)
  • Monkshood (Aconite)
  • Nicotiana (Nicotiana)
  • Peonies (Paeonia Lactiflora)
  • Shasta Daisy (Laucanthemum)
  • Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)
  • Ferns, Grasses & Sedges
  • Rhubarb (Rheum rhubarbarum)
  • Highbush Cranberry (Viburnum)
  • Juniper (Juniperas)
  • Lilacs (Syringa vulgarism)
  • Spruce (Picea)

FAVOURITE Deer Plants

Deer have distinct preferences. The plants listed below are particular favourites of deer and may draw them into your garden. Unfortunately our favourites are often deer favourites!

Trees, Shrubs, Vines

  • Apples (Malus)
  • White Cedar (Arborvitae)
  • Azaleas (Rhododendron spp.): Both deciduous & evergreen
  • Roses (Rosas)
  • Sumac (Rhus typhina)

Vegetable Garden Plants

  • Beans (Phaseolus spp.)
  • Blackberries, Raspberries (Rubus spp.)
  • Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower (Brassica spp.)
  • Lettuce (Lactuca spp.)
  • Peas (Pisum satirum)
  • Strawberries (Fragaria spp.)
  • Sweet Corn (Zea mays spp.)

Herbaceous Ornamentals

  • Dahlias (Dahlia spp.)
  • Daylillies (Hemerocallis spp.)
  • Hostas (Hosta spp.)
  • Impatiens (Impatiens spp.)
  • Pansies (Viola x wittrockiana)
  • Phlox (Phlox spp.)
  • Spring Bulbs: Crocus (Crocus spp.) Tulips (Tulipa spp.)

PLANTING GARLIC ‘Here in the Haliburton Highlands’*

January 20, 2023

Keep it simple…follow some basic steps…let them sleep…greet them in the spring!

Plant between Thanksgiving and mid-November here in the Highlands

Our growing season is not long and therefore by planting in the fall, roots are given a chance to develop before the cloves go to sleep in the freezing soil. As the soil warms in the spring, the clove, still cold, is stimulated to sprout and develop into a bulb. Since the roots have already started in the previous fall, the cloves get a head start on the new growing season.

Site

  • A sunny location (8 to 10 hrs)
  • Loose crumbly soil so the roots can penetrate deep for the nutrients and water.

Soil prep

  • Work year old manure or compost into the top 4 to 5 inches of the planting bed.
  • Raised beds are preferable, 3 to 4’ wide for easy access from either side of the bed.
  • Length of the bed will depend on your space and how much you wish to harvest.

Planting

  • Source fresh, local garlic for planting. It will be primed to Haliburton’s growing conditions.
  • Separate the cloves from the stem, protecting the root base, so each clove has a root base for new growth.

TIPS UP! Always!

  • Plant in holes or trench prepared 4” deep – 6” apart
  • Cover and tamp down gently to bring soil into contact with cloves.
  • After a good frost and before the ground freezes, it is recommended to apply a mulch of 6” to the planted garlic bed. Spoiled hay, straw or chopped up leaves can be used to cover and protect the cloves from heaving and cold weather damage.

Breaking apart Garlic Bulb for planting

Planting Garlic

Have you seen these “Lost” Ladybugs?*

July 27, 2022

Two ‘Lost Lady Beetles’ – if you find one – WE WANT TO KNOW ABOUT IT!

These native Lady Beetles, once common in Ontario, are now endangered and Haliburton Highlands Land Trust (HHLT) is looking for them this summer.

Nine-Spotted and Transverse Lady Beetles

 

Two not ‘lost’, but very rare Lady Beetles, if you find one – WE WANT TO KNOW ABOUT IT TOO!

Two-Spotted and Parenthesis Lady Beetles

 

 

 

 

If you think you see any of these Lady Beetles take a picture (from several angles if possible), with notation of location found, then post on iNaturalist “Lady Beetles of Haliburton County” project or email, along with your contact information to admin@haliburtonlandtrust.ca

Nine-spotted and Transverse Lady Beetles are species at risk (SAR) in Ontario and HHLT is trying to help! We will be searching our own properties and we are hoping you will help by becoming a Citizen Scientist and help sleuth on our behalf in your backyards or along your favourite hiking trails.

These beauties are not picky about their habitat, as long as they have food (like aphids). They will live in farm fields, meadows, forest edges, clearings, backyards and gardens…..so please keep your eyes open! Even though tiny, they play an unique role in the food web ecosystem. Each time a species disappears the food web gets weaker. We need to keep the web strong to support all life on Earth, including humans!

Not to be mistaken by these impostors:

Multicoloured Asian and Seven-spotted Lady Beetles

 

 

 

 

Haliburton Highlands Land Trust LogoHaliburton Highlands Land Trust 739 Mountain Street, P.O. Box 804 Haliburton, ON K0M 1S0
705-457-3700 admin@haliburtonlandtrust.ca www.haliburtonlandtrust.ca

 

Funding for this project was provided by the Government of Ontario

Photos obtained under Creative Commons licenses. Credits: Nine-spotted-Rebecca Ray, Jason Headley; Transverse—Lon&Queta; Two-spotted–urjsa; Parenthesis-Bloin Perrick; Asian and Seven spotted-Oregon Department of Agriculture.

Crop Rotation*

March 29, 2022

Garden Carrots

Crop Rotation is not just for Farmers

You are what you eat! In this day and age when increasing attention is paid to the quality of the food we eat, more and more people want to grow their own food. As a hallmark for sustainable farming, crop rotation minimizes problems down the road while preserving soil structure and health.

Crop rotation is not just for the farmers. It can be put to use in small plots of land as well. By rotating crops each season; we promote a natural method of pest control which helps to break disease cycles that can occur when the same crop is grown in the same spot for successive years. For example, Clubroot is a soil borne fungus that affects brassicas, and accumulates from successive growth in the same location. Mono cropping also depletes the soil of nutrients specific to that crop. In the same way our bodies can ache if we do the same thing over and over, the soil can get tired if we plant the same vegetable, year after year in the same spot.

Simply put, crop rotation requires you to avoid growing the same crop in the same spot year after year. Plant your like family vegetables in a different spot than the previous year and rotate your different crops like a cycle. It’s helpful that some vegetables will replenish lost nutrients back to the soil after a crop has been harvested. It helps to grow legumes after heavy feeders like corn or leafy vegetables. While you’re at it, add in some green manure like clover to enrich the soil. No matter what vegetables you are growing, there are many rotations to suit your needs. You decide!

Remember that any crop rotation is a work in progress, and much of the enjoyment and challenge comes from experimenting with it each year as you learn from previous years. By keeping in mind a few things, it will make it much easier to work out a suitable rotation for you.

  • Know botanical names of your vegetables and group vegetables from the same family together
  • Explore the internet as  there are a wealth of resources 
  • Keep a notebook to record observations and keep accurate records 
  • Grow green manure as it enriches the soil like essential nutrients for the body
  • Alternate deep rooted and shallow rooted crops to promote a balanced draw
  • Leafy vegetables generally use a lot of nitrogen so plant soil builders like beans prior to growing lettuce

Some basic types of groupings that may work for you include: heavy feeders (broccoli, lettuce, tomatoes, eggplant, corn, squash); light feeders (carrots, turnips, sweet potatoes, peppers, garlic, onions, chives); nitrogen fixing (soil builders – green beans, lima beans, peas, soybeans); green manures (clover, vetch, alfalfa, rye, buckwheat).

Article written by Shane Rajapakse for the MGOI newsletter and reprinted here with permission.

Editor’s Note:  More gardeners are practicing a technique called chop and drop. Essentially you cut back your weeds and grasses before they go to seed and leave them on your garden as green manure mulch.  The nutrients are available immediately to the plants and the mulch helps the soil to retain moisture, repress weeds and improve soil structure.

 

 

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