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Local Knowledge

Deterring Canada Geese*

May 1, 2023

Did you know that the Canada goose is not native to the Haliburton region? Historically their nesting grounds were limited to the Arctic tundra, to the Western Prairies and to the grasslands and wetlands of southwest Ontario. They were nearly extinct 100 years ago because of overhunting and the drainage of wetlands. In the intervening years conservation efforts and government wildlife laws re-established their numbers in the millions.

Canada GeeseHuman settlement has also rapidly changed the once forested Ontario landscape to one of vast expanses of manicured grass, suburban sprawl and fields of corn and grain. With few predators and abundant food supply the exploding populations of Canada goose are overgrazing and despoiling the land and water. They are also taking over habitats once the preserve of native species of birds.

Geese leave large quantities of molted feathers and droppings, up to 2 kg per bird per day, which have health risks to humans and consequences for other species, the land and water. Competition for feeding and nesting material can also spread diseases such as botulism, cholera, or avian flu among geese. The habitat in our region did not evolve to support such a large bird species with its large brood and insatiable demand for food and space. The fragile ecosystem of the Canadian Shield is being negatively impacted by this large bird with a voracious appetite.

WHAT CAN WE DO?
Most animals are self-regulating and their population numbers will adjust to the habitat available. If you want to reduce the number of geese from the Highlands and restore species balance you need to make your property unattractive to them.The kindest and most effective way to do that is to change the landscape.They like to eat grass and they like wide open spaces so that they can keep an eye on any advancing predators. They are also suspicious of any shrubs that might provide cover for predators.

The first step is to plant a physical and visual barrier of shrubs along the water. A cost effective solution for a large area would be to use Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea) and Willow (Salix) cuttings purchased or taken from nearby plants in the very early spring. Ten to twelve inch cuttings can simply be stuck into the ground to a depth of 6”. The abundant rain and flooding of the riverbank will soon have them putting out roots. White Meadowsweet (Spirea alba) is readily available at nurseries and is another quick growing dense shrub to deter geese. For a year or so while your shrubs are maturing you’ll need a line with flags or flashing tape to prevent the geese from coming up out of the water onto your lawn. This barrier will only work for the 6 weeks, during July and August when the geese are molting and lose their flight feathers preventing them from flying. During the rest of the year they will simply fly over any barrier.Vegetation on Shoreline

 

The second step at this stage is to interrupt the vast expanse of grass with shrubs, trees, and other plants, preferably native. A small grove of Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia), a medium growing shrub with showy spring flowers and an open branch structure would be a good choice for any location. You could incorporate a snaking path to the water if access is required.

It may take 2-3 years to fully vegetate your waterfront to deter the geese. Geese like to return to the same nesting location year after year so you’ll have to be vigilant if you have nesting geese on
your property.
It may take you some time to adjust to the more natural look, but you’ll rejoice when you’ve succeeded at eliminating the Canada Geese who were fouling your property, polluting your water and ousting the smaller native birds.

IN BRIEF
1. Deprive geese of the grass that

Zig Zag path to water at Walling Wall
Zig Zag path to water at Walling Wall

they like to eat and obscure their line of sight with plants
2. Design a narrow zig zag shaped walking path to the water
3. Reduce grass, mow less often and add native plants
4. Plant a continuous 30” high band of dense native plants along the shoreline as deep as you can (20-30 feet deep recommended but anything will help). These plantings will provide a physical barrier and with reduced site lines the geese will fear predators and stay away.
5. Erect a temporary barrier of two rows of line or reflective scare tape until the vegetation fills in.
6. Encourage aquatic plants such as bulrushes and cattails that work to deter geese.
7. Plant trees and understory shrubs to obstruct their overhead line of sight.

 

Carolyn Langdon, Master Gardener 2023

References:
https://www.canada.ca/en/environment-climate-change/services/migratory-bird-conservation/publications/handbook-managing-cackling-geese-southern/chapter-3.html#_toc070102
https://www.lesslawn.com/articles/article1034.html
https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Canada_Goose/lifehistory

Deer Me…*

April 30, 2023

Deer In Winter

DEER PROOFING STRATEGIES

Many gardeners have their own deer-proofing ideas ~ from the bar of soap hanging from a tree to the group of aluminum foil plates or cds waving in the breeze. While some of these may work from time to time, for a while, there are other strategies that may have a longer lasting effect.

FENCING

Whitetail deer can jump at least 10 ft. (3 m) but an 8 ft. (2.5 m) fence should be ok; depending on the width of the garden. Expensive but reliable.

CHEMICAL DETERRENTS

For example, Coyote urine or various home-made recipes to spray on the leaves which can be found on the internet.
Recipes are based on combinations containing any of egg and/or milk with oil and a dash of dish detergent. Enhance with your choice of garlic or hot pepper sauce then age to disgusting (putrescent) and filter.
Commercial Products like Plantskydd and Bobbex do work if applied diligently and rotated. However, they are expensive.

It has been suggested that deer don’t like fuzzy leaves but they will, for example, eat Lambs Ears. They also may not like aromatic plants but have been known to eat Artemesia. Often deer won’t eat prickly plants although they seem to like Rosebushes.
Stinging Nettle and Thistles might be good to grow!
Native Plants have survived…
Deer will try anything once.

They prune apple trees and also eat all the apples they can reach.

Deer Eating Apples

Deer RESISTANT Plants

  • Allium (Allium spp.)
  • Bee Balm/Bergamot (Monarda)
  • Blazing Star (Liatris)
  • Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
  • Brown/black eyed Susans (Rudbeckia)
  • Butterfly weed (Asclepias)
  • Cleome (Cleome)
  • Coneflower (Echinacea)
  • Cosmos (Cosmos)
  • Daffodils (Narcissus spp.)
  • Dead Nettle (Lamium)
  • Delphinium (Delphinium)
  • Foxglove (Digitalis)
  • Globe Thistle (Echinops)
  • Goldenrod (Solidago)
  • Iris (Iris)
  • Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla)
  • Lavender (Lavendula)
  • Lupins (Lupinus)
  • Marigolds (Tagetas)
  • Monkshood (Aconite)
  • Nicotiana (Nicotiana)
  • Peonies (Paeonia Lactiflora)
  • Shasta Daisy (Laucanthemum)
  • Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)
  • Ferns, Grasses & Sedges
  • Rhubarb (Rheum rhubarbarum)
  • Highbush Cranberry (Viburnum)
  • Juniper (Juniperas)
  • Lilacs (Syringa vulgarism)
  • Spruce (Picea)

FAVOURITE Deer Plants

Deer have distinct preferences. The plants listed below are particular favourites of deer and may draw them into your garden. Unfortunately our favourites are often deer favourites!

Trees, Shrubs, Vines

  • Apples (Malus)
  • White Cedar (Arborvitae)
  • Azaleas (Rhododendron spp.): Both deciduous & evergreen
  • Roses (Rosas)
  • Sumac (Rhus typhina)

Vegetable Garden Plants

  • Beans (Phaseolus spp.)
  • Blackberries, Raspberries (Rubus spp.)
  • Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower (Brassica spp.)
  • Lettuce (Lactuca spp.)
  • Peas (Pisum satirum)
  • Strawberries (Fragaria spp.)
  • Sweet Corn (Zea mays spp.)

Herbaceous Ornamentals

  • Dahlias (Dahlia spp.)
  • Daylillies (Hemerocallis spp.)
  • Hostas (Hosta spp.)
  • Impatiens (Impatiens spp.)
  • Pansies (Viola x wittrockiana)
  • Phlox (Phlox spp.)
  • Spring Bulbs: Crocus (Crocus spp.) Tulips (Tulipa spp.)

PLANTING GARLIC ‘Here in the Haliburton Highlands’*

January 20, 2023

Keep it simple…follow some basic steps…let them sleep…greet them in the spring!

Plant between Thanksgiving and mid-November here in the Highlands

Our growing season is not long and therefore by planting in the fall, roots are given a chance to develop before the cloves go to sleep in the freezing soil. As the soil warms in the spring, the clove, still cold, is stimulated to sprout and develop into a bulb. Since the roots have already started in the previous fall, the cloves get a head start on the new growing season.

Site

  • A sunny location (8 to 10 hrs)
  • Loose crumbly soil so the roots can penetrate deep for the nutrients and water.

Soil prep

  • Work year old manure or compost into the top 4 to 5 inches of the planting bed.
  • Raised beds are preferable, 3 to 4’ wide for easy access from either side of the bed.
  • Length of the bed will depend on your space and how much you wish to harvest.

Planting

  • Source fresh, local garlic for planting. It will be primed to Haliburton’s growing conditions.
  • Separate the cloves from the stem, protecting the root base, so each clove has a root base for new growth.

TIPS UP! Always!

  • Plant in holes or trench prepared 4” deep – 6” apart
  • Cover and tamp down gently to bring soil into contact with cloves.
  • After a good frost and before the ground freezes, it is recommended to apply a mulch of 6” to the planted garlic bed. Spoiled hay, straw or chopped up leaves can be used to cover and protect the cloves from heaving and cold weather damage.

Breaking apart Garlic Bulb for planting

Planting Garlic

Have you seen these “Lost” Ladybugs?*

July 27, 2022

Two ‘Lost Lady Beetles’ – if you find one – WE WANT TO KNOW ABOUT IT!

These native Lady Beetles, once common in Ontario, are now endangered and Haliburton Highlands Land Trust (HHLT) is looking for them this summer.

Nine-Spotted and Transverse Lady Beetles

 

Two not ‘lost’, but very rare Lady Beetles, if you find one – WE WANT TO KNOW ABOUT IT TOO!

Two-Spotted and Parenthesis Lady Beetles

 

 

 

 

If you think you see any of these Lady Beetles take a picture (from several angles if possible), with notation of location found, then post on iNaturalist “Lady Beetles of Haliburton County” project or email, along with your contact information to admin@haliburtonlandtrust.ca

Nine-spotted and Transverse Lady Beetles are species at risk (SAR) in Ontario and HHLT is trying to help! We will be searching our own properties and we are hoping you will help by becoming a Citizen Scientist and help sleuth on our behalf in your backyards or along your favourite hiking trails.

These beauties are not picky about their habitat, as long as they have food (like aphids). They will live in farm fields, meadows, forest edges, clearings, backyards and gardens…..so please keep your eyes open! Even though tiny, they play an unique role in the food web ecosystem. Each time a species disappears the food web gets weaker. We need to keep the web strong to support all life on Earth, including humans!

Not to be mistaken by these impostors:

Multicoloured Asian and Seven-spotted Lady Beetles

 

 

 

 

Haliburton Highlands Land Trust LogoHaliburton Highlands Land Trust 739 Mountain Street, P.O. Box 804 Haliburton, ON K0M 1S0
705-457-3700 admin@haliburtonlandtrust.ca www.haliburtonlandtrust.ca

 

Funding for this project was provided by the Government of Ontario

Photos obtained under Creative Commons licenses. Credits: Nine-spotted-Rebecca Ray, Jason Headley; Transverse—Lon&Queta; Two-spotted–urjsa; Parenthesis-Bloin Perrick; Asian and Seven spotted-Oregon Department of Agriculture.

Components of Soil*

April 19, 2022

Mineral soils consist of four major components:

1. Mineral Materials

  • sand, silt and clay are the 3 major components of the mineral fraction of soil
  • they account for 45%-50% of the total soil volume
  • sand and silt particles are derived from quartz and feldspar
  • gravel and sand can be seen with the naked eye
  • a magnifying glass is necessary to see silt particles
  • clay particles are derived from silica and aluminum oxides

2. Organic Matter

  • consists of dead and decaying plants and animals.
  • is critical for gardening success because:
  • improves the soil’s physical structure
  • holds and releases plant nutrients
  • increases the water holding capacity of the soil
  • increases beneficial organisms in the soil

3. Water and 4. Air

  • are found in the pore spaces between mineral and organic components
  • account for about 50% of total soil volume
  • are essential for the growth of plant roots and soil microbes
  • dissolve most plant nutrients

Soil porosity is a measure of the pore space volume of a given soil:

  • sandy soils have large pore spaces which promote rapid drainage of water and leaching of nutrients and organic matter
  • clay soils contain tiny pore spaces which may impede root growth and water drainage
  • increasing organic matter increases the soil’s porosity and capacity to hold water

Air is pushed out when water comes into the soil from precipitation or irrigation of groundwater. If air is unavailable to plant roots for too long, the plant suffers from lack of oxygen. Some water is used by plants, some is lost through evaporation, and some moves so deep into the soil the plant roots cannot reach it.

Soil Layers (Horizons)

Ontario soils have at least 3 distinct layers that differ in colour, texture, consistency, and structure.

1. Surface Soil

  • contains most of the organic matter and plant roots
  • provides most of the nutrients and water to plants

2. Subsoil

  • consists of small clay particles that are carried down by gravity and rainfall
  • is lower in organic matter
  • provides storage space for water and nutrients
  • helps regulate the soil temperature and air supply of plant roots

3. Parent Material

  • is made up of decomposed rock characteristic of the bedrock
  • influences the soil’s texture, fertility, acidity, and depth

Soil Structure

In each textural class there is a range in the amounts of sand, silt, and clay that can be present. Most surface soils in Ontario fall into five textural classes. Each class name indicates relative amounts of sand, silt and clay in the soil.

Soil Texture Pyramid

 

1. Silt loam

2. Loam

3. Silty clay loam

4. Sandy loam

5. Clay Loam

Erosion Solutions From Heavy Rain*

March 29, 2022

Question: Can you slow water runoff at the top of a slope?

Natural Stone StepsMaster Gardener Carolyn Langdon advises you to build a small rain garden at the top of your slope. Add a small berm at the top of and/or mid-way down your slope. Put in a berm of logs, branches, soil and/or rocks to slow down the water running off and to allow time for the rain to absorb and for plant roots to establish. The idea is to place any material that will act to obstruct or slow down the path of water. Organic material has the additional benefit of providing texture and nutrients to your soil as it breaks down.

Clearing a shoreline or hillside of herbaceous plants, shrubs and trees can lead to erosion if not re-planted. Longer, steeper slopes, especially those without adequate vegetative cover are more susceptible to very high rates of erosion during heavy rains than shorter, less steep slopes.

Please remember that a rain garden is not the same as a water garden. There are 5 components to a rain garden:

1. Depression
2. Amended filter bed (see wood log trench below)
3. Berm on the low side
4. Rockery to slow water entering the garden if necessary
5. Plants tolerant of water and long periods of dryness (i.e. 2-3 days of standing water)

Woodlog Trench DiagramNatural Wood Log Berm

 

 

 

 

A rain garden is a low tech solution for a location that periodically gets inundated with water. For example some downspouts can’t handle the quantity of rain and the spill over can cause existing vegetation to die and erosion of soil. Hard surfaces channel water during torrential rain and spring snow melt events that cause erosion particularly on steep slopes. A rain garden and berming might be an affordable solution. A 5X10 foot rain garden 6 inches deep is equivalent to 11 rain barrels.

Dig your rain garden (12-18” deep) and fill with a combination of logs, branches, and wood chips at different stages of decomposition. Add native soil and locally composted organic matter. Plant. Remember good humic soil will store a lot of water. Other practises for extreme sites is to mulch deeply, contour the soil, plant native species adapted to the location and plant densely.

Select the Right Plants

In this situation plants that can withstand short periods of flooding and long periods of dryness are required. Xerioscaping plants i.e. those that tolerate drought won’t do well in a condition that includes extreme wet and extreme dry. Likewise plants that require constant moisture wil not do well.

Do favour native over non-native plants and do not plant fast growing invasive plants however tempting that might be to stabilize your slope.

The following native Ontario plants can tolerate moist and dry soil:

Aster (Aster spp.)
Bergamot, Wild (Monarda fistulosa)
Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta)
Blazing stars, Rough (Liatris aspera)
Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis)
Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens)
Goldenrod (Solidago spp.)
Verbena (Verbena spp.)
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Sweet gale or bog myrtle (Myrica gale L) Myricaceae (Wax-myrtle or bayberry Family)
Non invasive ornamental grasses, native sedges (they look like grasses and can tolerate some shade), and rushes. Hierochloe odorata or Sweetgrass
Marginal Woodfern (Dryopteris marginalis) can tolerates mid-summer drought if planted in the shade.
Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) a Zone 3 Ontario Native that is heat and drought tolerant,
Liatris aspera or Blazing Star, another Ontario native,
Schizachyrium scoparium or Little Bluestem (Ontario native)
Highbush Cranberry (V. trilobum or V. opulus var. americanum). This native shrub likes to grow in open, wooded, somewhat poorly drained locations. In the ideal location, cranberry can become very wide, often three metres or more, and reach about the same height.
Low bush Cranberry or Squashberry (V. edule)
Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago) will grow almost anywhere including shade, but they take on their best form in full sunlight. In full sun their fall leaf colours will be a vibrant purple-red.
Common or Eastern Ninebark up to 3 m, spring flower cluster, berries

Credit Valley Conservation planted native plants in their rain garden. They chose the following plants because they were widely available at local nurseries: Red Osier Dogwood, New England Aster, Tall Meadow Rue, Black Eyed Susans, Canada Anemone.  Shade-tolerant native plants included: Common elderberry, Sensitive Fern and Heart leaved Aster.

A dense base of day lilies and irises will give you a fibrous root system. While they aren’t native they are often planted in a naturalized landscape.

To buy plants please try your local garden centre and check other sources listed in our list of suppliers and services here.

 

Article Sources

Credit Valley

Toronto Zoo

For additional plant selection please see Appendix C, List of Plants tolerating both wet and dry conditions. University of Guelph

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