Before you take any serious site alteration to your property it’s important to consult your township and/or county office for guidance. If you see activity on a neighboring property that is concerning, you can also contact the County Conservation Bylaw Officer.
Development practices are altering our shorelines such that an important buffer of native vegetation along the shoreline has become fragmented. This fragmentation has a negative effect on water quality and the fish and wildlife that rely on this critical space where water touches land.
To manage what can be built or paved in that important buffer area, and recognizing the equal if not greater importance of the understory species that reinforce the tree layer, the County sought to put additional regulations in place to protect the shorelands and the quality of the water. *
Scientists agree that a 30-metre buffer of trees and underbrush is the minimum to protect water quality. More is better of course, and many waterfront residents do keep their entire properties vegetated with native species.
The new Shoreline Preservation By-law which was passed in April 2023 stipulates a buffer of 20 meters from the shoreline. Bylaws can be amended with improvements in the future. The township of Dysart et el is working on their own Shoreline by-law and it should be in place in 2023.
The County has a Shoreline Tree Preservation By-law that stipulates no cutting of trees with a diameter of 5 cm or within 30 metres of the shoreline.
Another little known by-law is the Haliburton County Forestry Conservation By-law that guides and restricts what landowners can do on properties of 4 hectares (9.88 acres) or more. This is an important bylaw because it applies to all types of properties not just waterfront lots.
Conservation Bylaw Officer
These bylaws are complaint driven so if you see any activity going on that you’re not sure complies with the bylaw call or email the County’s Conservation Bylaw Officer, James Rogers to discuss the situation with him. jrogers@haliburtoncounty.ca Tel. 705 457-6854.
* The vegetative layer beneath the tree canopy, the “brush” can contain 90% of the species in the forest and is vital to forest function. This layer shades tree roots, covers bare soil, influences the growth of tree seedlings, and discourages weeds. Its fallen foliage is higher in nutrients than decaying tree leaves. Shallow roots mat together to anchor the soil and intercept surface runoff. Deeper rooted plants also take up water and excess nutrients at levels just above the bedrock in areas with thin soil. Overhanging plants provide shade and cover for fish and other aquatic life. Native vegetation requires no harmful pesticides or fertilizers to thrive. Herbaceous plants are a source of nectar, pollen and nesting material for pollinating insects and birds. From the Master Gardeners’ Directory of Native Plants for your Property including Shorelines
If you have the good fortune to live close to a marsh you will be able to observe the comings and goings of the most biodiverse ecosystem on the planet. Wetlands are comparable to rainforests and coral reefs for the sheer number of plant and animal species that they support. Some people see swampy land as a breeding ground for mosquitoes with no inherent value. They itch to drain the land, fill the low spots and use it for agriculture, housing or industry. Around the world such practises have changed the climate, released tons of carbon into the air, extinguished untold animal species, created droughts, fouled the water, eroded shorelines and caused destructive and widespread flooding.
There are no bylaws to prevent the filling in of upper wetlands and even those along shorelines in Haliburton County have been allowed to be destroyed. Fortunately, a new Shoreline Preservation By- law will protect some of these shoreline wetlands and upland ponds but still much will remain under protected. Click here to read more about how local laws do and don’t protect forests and wetlands. The township of Minden has had the foresight to demarcate the wetland in the middle of their town as a park and put in a Boardwalk that is popular with walkers and photographers. And it’s a good thing because the damage to roads and properties due to three ‘state of emergency’ flood events in a recent six year period would have been a whole lot worse without the wetland.
The Minden marsh absorbs a great quantity of water during a torrential rainstorm. The water spreads out along low lying areas and the marshes slow and filter the water preventing the banks from overflowing and flooding. These and other marshes help to balance the level of water throughout the year within the Gull River watershed. The Minden Wetland also filters out pollutants and excess nutrients reducing the algae growth in Gull Lake and others downstream. Too much algae growth robs the lake of oxygen which can result in the death of fish and is a sign of a system badly out of balance. No one wants to live on a dead lake.
Value forests and vegetated shorelands
The forested hillsides and shorelands in our region also play a critical role in our health, safety and well-being. Forests filter and regulate the flow of water. Their leaves capture and slow the fall of rain to the forest floor, which acts like an enormous sponge, absorbing up to 46 centimetres (15 in) of precipitation before gradually releasing it to streams and recharging ground water. On average an untouched forest floor can absorb 2/3rds more rain than a cover of suburban turf.
If you have a low marshy area on your property, you could make it an attractive feature instead of filling it in. If it’s in a sunny area, you might want to plant blue eyed grass (Sisyrinchium) or the native bright red Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) If it receives shade how about planting a fernery. There are a number of native ferns and other moisture loving plants for sun, shade and the in between. For more plant descriptions please consult the Directory of Native Plants for Your Property including Shorelines as well as considering the list of plants below.
To choose the right plant for the right place we need to understand the shoreline zone and the littoral zone. The shoreline is where water meets the land and this line can fluctuate seasonally and as a result of the Trent Severn management of the dams in the over 600 lakes of Haliburton County. The plants in this zone we’ll call shoreline plants. The littoral zone is the near shore area where sunlight penetrates all the way to the bottom and allows aquatic plants to grow. In this zone we include three types of plants. Emergent plants, Floating plants and submerged plants
Diagram of the four types of aquatic plants:
1.Shoreline or Marginal Plants are found where water meets land. They like moist soil and seasonal flooding. (Blue flag iris, some shrubs and trees)
2. Standing Water or Emergent Plants have their roots in the soil under water but grow up and emerge out of the water.
3. Floating Plants float at or near the water surface and have either floating roots or roots in the soil at the bottom (eg. duckweed and lily pads)
4. Submerged Plants are completely underwater and have roots in the soil at the bottom. (e.g. pond weed and bladderwort)
Shoreline Plants are an important food source for pollinators like bees, birds, butterflies and moths. Since these plants grow tall, mammals and invertebrates like frogs use them to hide from predators. You will find descriptions of many plants suitable for shorelands such as the Blue Flag Iris, Meadowsweet, Boneset, Joe Pye Weed, Turtlehead, Swamp Milkweed, sedges, and ferns in the Directory of Native Plants. You will also want to peruse the article on Solutions for Erosion for a good selection of plants that can adapt to both wet and dry conditions.
If you’re looking for a taller ornamental shrub for the shoreline you can’t go wrong with our two native hollies.
Mountain holly (Nemopatthus mucronate) can often be found growing in full sun in wet areas. It can be naturalized in wet woodland landscapes, where it will form dense colonies. It will grow to 2 metres tall and 1 metre wide. The attractive red berries are an important food source for migrating birds and disappear quickly in autumn. Male and female plants are required for fruiting. Full sun required for good fruit production. Propagate by softwood cuttings.
Winterberry (Ibex verticillata) is a holly shrub 1-5 m tall so called because it retains its berries into winter unlike its close cousin the Mountain Holly. In wet sites, it will form a dense thicket, while in dry soil it will grow slowly into a smaller shrub. It has lovely glossy leaves, tiny flowers but beautiful red fruits that provide winter food for the American Robin and other birds. Male and female plants are required for fruiting. Full sun required for good fruit production. Propagate by softwood cuttings. Photo credit: SB_Johnny
Emergent Plants are important in providing a buffer from wind and wave action that can wash out shorelines. Waterfowl such as mallards and wood ducks feast on emergent plants. They also use their sturdy stems and leaves to build nests. Fish and insects also use these plants for cover and food.
Plants like Common Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) is a real showstopper with its fuzzy, golf ball shaped flowers which appear in August. It’s a fulsome spreading shrub or small tree that needs wet to moist conditions like those found in ponds and marsh areas. It thrives in sun to part sun. Ducks and other water birds and shorebirds consume the seeds and songbirds love the fruit. Butterflies, bees, and insects are attracted to the fragrant, nectar rich flowers. It also provides nesting habitat for songbirds and if we haven’t sold you on this plant yet it is deer resistant.
Tawny Bog Cotton (Eriophorum virginicum) is common in sphagnum bogs and wet ditches. This unique sedge is one of many cotton grass cultivars with a flower that has a white to tan bristly appearing but soft, cotton like mass 1 to 2 inches across. It blooms from June to September. The leaves are flat and grass like.
Wild Calla (Calla palustris) forms dense colonies and spreads by rhizomes. Blooming in late spring It has a lovely white flower followed by bright red berries. It can tolerate partial shade and grows from 20-30 cm tall.
Scirpus cyperinus and Scirpus validus are the most common species among the bulrushes. They grow in wet soil, full sun, or light shade. It’s good for erosion control when planted en masse. Bulrush forms a buffer against wind and wave action and protects other less robust aquatic plants to grow. It has a lovely woolly head and not to be confused with cattails.
Sweet Flag (Acorus americanus) grows to 30 cm tall in full sun. It can form stands of sword-shaped, stemless leaves similar to Iris leaves but with an understated furry flower that emerges from a stiff spath. The “sweet” in the name comes from the scent the leaves give off when broken. Rhizomes allow a plant to die back and survive the winter.
Pickerelweed (Pontederia cordata) has heart shaped leaves and showy deep blue spikes of flowers grows to 30 cm tall.
Arrowhead (Sagittaria latifolia) The leaf is arrowhead shaped and in mid summer a lovely white flower emerges. It grows in calm waters and its rhizome was eaten by local tribes.
Cattails (Typha latifolia) are widely recognized as a 2-meter-tall water loving plant that bears a brown fruiting head that looks like a hotdog on the top of its study stalk. It’s sword shaped leaves rustle in the breeze and turn yellow brown in autumn. Their root systems help prevent erosion. They provide protection and nesting habitat for many birds, reptiles, insects and animals. Their “nutlet” seed fruits are an important food for many species of insects and that then become food for other species. They also provided important food source for local tribes.
Floating Plants help keep algae in balance by absorbing nutrients, blocking light and cooling the water. These same factors provide an underwater habitat perfect for fish hunting for water insects. They provide landing places for mosquito loving dragonflies and other insects and invertebrates.
Yellow Pond Lily (Nuphar variegate) will do well in quiet or gently flowing waters up to 2 metres deep. The flat oval shaped leaves float on the surface. A single yellow globe-shaped flower borne on a stout stalk proudly protrudes above the water. Propagate by seed or divide the rhizomes in late spring.
White Water Lily (Nymphaea odorata) has flat round leaves that float on the surface of quiet or gently flowing waters up to 2 meters deep. Blooming all summer, the showy flowers are large, fragrant with multiple white pointed petals and a centre of golden stamens. Propagate by seed or divide the rhizomes in late spring.
Duckweed or water lentils (Lemna minor)
This tiny little floating plant can quickly cover the surface of a small pond. It’s valued for improving water quality and it often used to treat wastewater because of its ability to absorb high amounts of nitrogen and phosphorous. It’s also grown commercially for cattle feed because of its high protein (45%) and fat content (4%).
Submerged Plants like Pondweed (Elodea canadensis) are excellent oxygenators that absorb excess nutrients from the water and release oxygen that helps to clean the water and prevent the overgrowth of algae. Fish use this habitat to make nests and to hide from prey while on the hunt. These plants are also food for ducks and muskrat. All rooted plants help keep the sediment at the bottom of a lake and buffer harmful wave action.
Carolyn Langdon, Master Gardeners 2023
Resource:
HHLT Guidelines on Protecting Wetlands
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Mineral soils consist of four major components:
1. Mineral Materials
- sand, silt and clay are the 3 major components of the mineral fraction of soil
- they account for 45%-50% of the total soil volume
- sand and silt particles are derived from quartz and feldspar
- gravel and sand can be seen with the naked eye
- a magnifying glass is necessary to see silt particles
- clay particles are derived from silica and aluminum oxides
2. Organic Matter
- consists of dead and decaying plants and animals.
- is critical for gardening success because:
- improves the soil’s physical structure
- holds and releases plant nutrients
- increases the water holding capacity of the soil
- increases beneficial organisms in the soil
3. Water and 4. Air
- are found in the pore spaces between mineral and organic components
- account for about 50% of total soil volume
- are essential for the growth of plant roots and soil microbes
- dissolve most plant nutrients
Soil porosity is a measure of the pore space volume of a given soil:
- sandy soils have large pore spaces which promote rapid drainage of water and leaching of nutrients and organic matter
- clay soils contain tiny pore spaces which may impede root growth and water drainage
- increasing organic matter increases the soil’s porosity and capacity to hold water
Air is pushed out when water comes into the soil from precipitation or irrigation of groundwater. If air is unavailable to plant roots for too long, the plant suffers from lack of oxygen. Some water is used by plants, some is lost through evaporation, and some moves so deep into the soil the plant roots cannot reach it.
Soil Layers (Horizons)
Ontario soils have at least 3 distinct layers that differ in colour, texture, consistency, and structure.
1. Surface Soil
- contains most of the organic matter and plant roots
- provides most of the nutrients and water to plants
2. Subsoil
- consists of small clay particles that are carried down by gravity and rainfall
- is lower in organic matter
- provides storage space for water and nutrients
- helps regulate the soil temperature and air supply of plant roots
3. Parent Material
- is made up of decomposed rock characteristic of the bedrock
- influences the soil’s texture, fertility, acidity, and depth
Soil Structure
In each textural class there is a range in the amounts of sand, silt, and clay that can be present. Most surface soils in Ontario fall into five textural classes. Each class name indicates relative amounts of sand, silt and clay in the soil.
1. Silt loam
2. Loam
3. Silty clay loam
4. Sandy loam
5. Clay Loam
DEER PROOFING STRATEGIES
Many gardeners have their own deer-proofing ideas ~ from the bar of soap hanging from a tree to the group of aluminum foil plates or cds waving in the breeze. While some of these may work from time to time, for a while, there are other strategies that may have a longer lasting effect.
FENCING
Whitetail deer can jump at least 10 ft. (3 m) but an 8 ft. (2.5 m) fence should be ok; depending on the width of the garden. Expensive but reliable.
CHEMICAL DETERRENTS
For example, Coyote urine or various home-made recipes to spray on the leaves which can be found on the internet.
Recipes are based on combinations containing any of egg and/or milk with oil and a dash of dish detergent. Enhance with your choice of garlic or hot pepper sauce then age to disgusting (putrescent) and filter.
Commercial Products like Plantskydd and Bobbex do work if applied diligently and rotated. However, they are expensive.
It has been suggested that deer don’t like fuzzy leaves but they will, for example, eat Lambs Ears. They also may not like aromatic plants but have been known to eat Artemesia. Often deer won’t eat prickly plants although they seem to like Rosebushes.
Stinging Nettle and Thistles might be good to grow!
Native Plants have survived…
Deer will try anything once.
They prune apple trees and also eat all the apples they can reach.
Deer RESISTANT Plants
- Allium (Allium spp.)
- Bee Balm/Bergamot (Monarda)
- Blazing Star (Liatris)
- Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis)
- Brown/black eyed Susans (Rudbeckia)
- Butterfly weed (Asclepias)
- Cleome (Cleome)
- Coneflower (Echinacea)
- Cosmos (Cosmos)
- Daffodils (Narcissus spp.)
- Dead Nettle (Lamium)
- Delphinium (Delphinium)
- Foxglove (Digitalis)
- Globe Thistle (Echinops)
- Goldenrod (Solidago)
- Iris (Iris)
- Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla)
- Lavender (Lavendula)
- Lupins (Lupinus)
- Marigolds (Tagetas)
- Monkshood (Aconite)
- Nicotiana (Nicotiana)
- Peonies (Paeonia Lactiflora)
- Shasta Daisy (Laucanthemum)
- Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)
- Ferns, Grasses & Sedges
- Rhubarb (Rheum rhubarbarum)
- Highbush Cranberry (Viburnum)
- Juniper (Juniperas)
- Lilacs (Syringa vulgarism)
- Spruce (Picea)
FAVOURITE Deer Plants
Deer have distinct preferences. The plants listed below are particular favourites of deer and may draw them into your garden. Unfortunately our favourites are often deer favourites!
Trees, Shrubs, Vines
- Apples (Malus)
- White Cedar (Arborvitae)
- Azaleas (Rhododendron spp.): Both deciduous & evergreen
- Roses (Rosas)
- Sumac (Rhus typhina)
Vegetable Garden Plants
- Beans (Phaseolus spp.)
- Blackberries, Raspberries (Rubus spp.)
- Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower (Brassica spp.)
- Lettuce (Lactuca spp.)
- Peas (Pisum satirum)
- Strawberries (Fragaria spp.)
- Sweet Corn (Zea mays spp.)
Herbaceous Ornamentals
- Dahlias (Dahlia spp.)
- Daylillies (Hemerocallis spp.)
- Hostas (Hosta spp.)
- Impatiens (Impatiens spp.)
- Pansies (Viola x wittrockiana)
- Phlox (Phlox spp.)
- Spring Bulbs: Crocus (Crocus spp.) Tulips (Tulipa spp.)
When to Prune
The best time to prune most woody plants is during the cold season when they are dormant. If circumstances force you to prune later in the season you aren’t going to kill your plant.
Why Prune Plants in Late Winter?
they are free of leaves and you can see what you are doing
the plant energy isn’t wasted on new growth that is going to be loped off
they are least susceptible to infection at this time (there are exceptions)
Some Basics
- A tree grows from the top, from its leaders. A branch doesn’t move up a tree as it grows taller. The branches on a small tree will stay at the same height from the ground all its life. It will grow new branches higher up but the original branches will stay where they are.
2. Terms used in Tree and Shrub Pruning
Some Tips
- Sterilize your pruning equipment in isopropyl alcohol after working on each plant.
- The 4 D’s: prune out the dead, diseased, damaged and dysfunctional.
- Most trees and most other plants do not require a lot of pruning– in fact, most of the time, pruning out the 4 D’s is all that is needed.
Over pruning encourages water spouts (suckering) and effects root growth, growth that is essential to surving harsh climates. - Remove sucker growth from the base of the trunk and from the interior of the tree annually.
- Any cuts that aren’t made flush to a trunk or branch should be made at least 2 cm (1”) above a bud and cut cleanly with sharp pruners or loopers.
- Don’t stake a tree any longer than one year at which time it’s stable enough to stand on its own.
- Keep mulch away from the trunk of the plant to prevent rot and rodent damage.
- Use well-rotted manure, mulch or compost to nurture trees and shrubs placing it well away from the trunk or crown and concentrating it at the drip line. Over fertilizing with nitrites will inhibit flower budding and cause excess vegetative growth making plants vulnerable to pests. Over fertilized garden centre seedlings reared on chemicals may not survive normal planting conditions.
Pruning Trees (apple, pear)
Full Size Standard Trees (under 10 years of age)
- At maturity a pruned apple or pear tree should be Xmas tree shaped. Identify your central leader. Remove double leaders.
- Choose your lowest branch – in the Haliburton Highlands make sure it is above the snow line (1 metre min.) to avoid ice damage and breakage. Now prune all branches below it.
- Now prune according to the 4 Ds.
- If there are multiple branches you may want to thin some out. You want the tree to be well balanced so choose main branches on all sides first. (mark with ribbon).
- If you need to do further pruning, follow the branch to the trunk and cut on a 45 degree angle above the branch collar (to optimize healing). Avoid pruning branches larger than 8cm (3”). Prune out branches with wide or narrow crotches. The best crotch angle (roughly the 2 o’clock or 10 o’clock angle from the center of the tree). Wider angles can break when laden with fruit and narrower angles lead to bushy growth and fruit that is too high to pick.
Prune back any lower branches that arch and grow taller than the central leader. - You can choose at this last stage to give the tree an overall haircut by heading back the long gangly stems to encourage shorter, stouter branches. Cut back 20-30% of last year’s growth. (Avoid creating bushy starbursts in unwanted places)
- Thinning out young fruit: If you have a particularly prolific tree and are concerned that a branch laden with fruit will break and you want larger but fewer fruit and good flower bud development for the next season consider thinning out the fruit. Begin thinning the fruit early when it is 1.5 cm in diameter. Starting at one end of a branch remove fruit, leaving one fruit every 15 – 20 cm (6-8”). Any earlier and you might remove leaf buds by mistake. (This fruit thinning technique applies to pommes and stone fruits.)
Check out our Heritage Apple Project here!
Pruning Stone Fruit Trees (plum, cherry, apricot)
Stone fruits are native to warmer areas of the world and growing them in Zone 4 is a challenge. They bloom earlier in the spring and can be damaged by our late frosts. They are shallow rooted, prone to drought and disease and harvest is delayed to allow for maximum sweetening. (The sugar content in stone fruit doesn’t increase after harvest.) If you like cherries try growing a Shrub Cherry instead of a tree. They are hardy and blight resistant.
Stone fruit trees are pruned in spring from bud swell to petal drop to avoid infection from canker disease. The central leader is cut to encourage an open vase shape for maximum light penetration.
Notes on Trees
- Although there are newer more cold hardy rootstocks of dwarf and semi-dwarf trees a ‘standard’ height tree will be dependably cold hardy and live for decades. If you’ve ever walked through an old abandoned orchard the trees left standing are standard height heritage apples.
- A tree will develop a stronger, more extensive root system if it has a fuller crown. Limit pruning at the time of planting to structural training and the removal of damaged branches only. Any removal of branches will reduce the capacity of the tree to produce food in the leaves and provide energy for above and below ground growth.
- In most soils, the vast majority of trees’ fibrous, absorbing roots are in the top eight inches of soil. Roots grow where conditions are best for root growth and where water and oxygen are available.
- Taproots are very uncommon in mature trees. If taproots do develop, they usually will be forced into horizontal growth when they encounter bedrock or hard subsoils beneath the surface. The entire root systems of most trees can be found within three feet of soil. The spread of the root system however, can be very extensive, often extending 2-3 times the spread of the crown.
For more information go to: http://www.hardyfruittrees.ca/tutorials/2014/01/20/how-to-prune-a-fruit-tree
Pruning Grapevines
Grapevines have to be aggressively pruned in order to yield any fruit. The vine will only produce fruit on the new branches of the year. If you let the vine make five meters of branches every year, after 3 years your vine will have to feed 15 meters of branches in order to reach the branch’s extremity where the fruit is.
Goals of Pruning
- To obtain multiple clusters of fruit
- To train the vine along a trellis, fence or conventional 2 wire structure.
When to Prune
Late fall or early spring
Types of Pruning
- To tame an overgrown Grapezilla
- Young plants and annual maintenance pruning
The Technique
- Choose the main stem. It is the strongest stem that comes out of the ground. Then cut all the other stems coming out of the ground, just above the ground.
- On the main stem, you will have to choose 4 branches. Choose the two strongest branches from both the left and right sides. If supporting your vines with two parallel wires (like shown in the image below) choose your branches so that each of them will easily hang on the wire. Using flagging tape is a great help in identifying the branches to keep. It will also help you to avoid cutting the good branches.
- Cut all the branches, except for the 4 chosen, to 1cm from the main stem.
- Finally, on each of the 4 branches, keep two buds and cut off the branch between the second and third bud.
About Kiwi
- Male and female flowers are born on different plants, so both males and females must be planted in roughly a 1:6 ratio of males to females.
- The plants often take several years to mature and usually do not bear fruit until they are 5 to 9 years old.
- Although the plants are extremely winter hardy–tolerating temperatures as low as -30°F–they develop shoots early in the spring that are extremely sensitive to frost. In most years, there may be some shoot “burning” due to frost, although the plant usually survives, regrows, and fruits. If flowers are frosted, fruit will not develop that year.
- Hardy kiwi are extremely vigorously growing vines that require a substantial supporting trellis.
Pruning Kiwi Vine the First Year
- For the first year focus on straight growth and a strong framework. Tie the vine loosely to the post and keep it growing straight upward. Don’t allow it to twirl around the post. Remove all side branches until the vine reaches the top of the post.
- Cut out the top of the vine a few inches below the top of the post and encourage side shoots that grow laterally along the wires. Winter is the best time for pruning kiwi vine side branches along the wires. Cut them back to a point where the stems are about 1/4-inch in diameter. If the vine didn’t form good side branches at the top, cut the main trunk back by about 2 feet and try again next year.
- After the first year, focus on building strong lateral growth along the wires. Lead the branches near the top of the vine to the wires and fasten them in place every 18 to 24 inches. Cut the vine to keep it from extending beyond the wires. Remove shoots that are twisting around other shoots or taking off in the wrong direction.
How to Prune an Overgrown Kiwi
- Remove all of the branches that wind around the kiwi trellis. Also, remove vine sections wound around other branches or nearby plants. Using sharp, sterilized pruners make a clean cut about one inch (2.5 cm.) from the main vine.
- The next step is to trim out cross branches. This includes branches growing over or crossing other branches. Also, trim out shoots growing straight out from the stem since these will not bear fruit.
- Select a principal stem for the kiwi vine and train this straight up a trellis. It should get some 6 feet long. Just beyond this point, allow two lateral side shoots to grow over the trellis. Prune these back to three buds, then remove all other lateral shoots.
Read more at Gardening Know How: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/kiwi/pruning-kiwi-vines.htm
https://extension.psu.edu/hardy-kiwi-in-the-home-fruit-planting
General Care:
- Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce weeds.
- Water 1 inch per week from spring until after harvest.
- Keep bushes tidy by removing “suckers” that grow outside of designated rows. This prevents loss of nutrients used to grow the canes which will reduce berry size of next years crop.
Pests & Diseases:
- June through August watch for spider mites and Japanese beetles. Also susceptible to cane borers and powdery mildew.
- Rabbits will eat canes in the winter. Prevent with chicken wire fence.
Ever-bearing Raspberries AKA Fall-bearing Raspberries
- Fruit on first year of growth.
- After fruiting in fall, cut all canes to the ground. No pruning is required during the growing season.
- Clean up all debris to avoid disease and pests over winter.
- NOTE: To harvest both a fall and following summer crop, do not remove the primocanes that produced the fall crop. Prune them back in spring to 12 inches to the last visible node that had fruit and cut off dead tips.
Summer Fruiting Raspberries
- Produces fruit on 2-year-old canes.
- In the fall, cut canes to the ground that produced berries. These older canes are brown. Do not cut the new green canes as they will fruit next year.
4 Easy steps to Pruning Red Raspberries:
- Remove last year’s floricanes
- Narrow the row width to 1.5 – 2 feet
- Cut out the weaklings. You only want the tallest, thickest and healthiest looking canes left.
- Attach remaining canes to a V-shaped trellis. This design has 2 parallel wires spaced 3 feet apart and approximately 4 feet high. Attach canes to the trellis using twine. Tie canes so half are on one side of the row and half on the other side, approximately 1 every 4 inches. This promotes air circulation and encourages new growth in the center for next year. In addition, fruit will be on the outside for easier picking.
Plants have roots.They have roots that intertwine, roots that mat together, roots that penetrate deeply and anchor around rocks, roots that prevent soil from washing away. Nature has done a pretty good job holding things together since the last ice age 10,000 years ago. Attached to these roots are a variety of remarkable plants, shrubs and trees that have evolved over 10, 000 years with each other and with mammals, insects and avian species to create some pretty extraordinary ecosystems.
More and more landscapers are turning to native plants and methods that mimic natural processes to restore degraded sites along shorelines and in upland areas. If you live on waterfront, you’ll want access to the water to reach a dock or a beach. The ideal is to minimize the amount of native vegetation that you remove to create a path. For level sites a soft path is kindest on the land. For steeper sites, steps or a snaking path may be necessary. A path will act as a water course during heavy rains so top your path with wood mulch to help slow and absorb water. If your slope is very steep and you’re using rock, make it local granite which is available nearby and aesthetically fits in with the surrounding land. Don’t ignore the value of plants when you are putting in hardscapes like steps, patios and retaining walls and wherever practical choose plants over hardscape to solve problems and create esthetic spaces. Place plants close to hard scape features to hold the soil in place and plant them densely.
Bearberry would be a good choice for planting around steps and paths since they are widely available, hardy, low growing, sun loving and thrive in poor sandy soil.
Photo credit Sten Porse CC-BY 3.0plants
Shorelines cloaked in vegetation fare better than properties cleared of shrubs and trees and planted in grass. Steep banks do well planted in Willow shrubs, Speckled Alder, Beaked Hazelnut (Corylus cornuta) and Red Osier Dogwood, named for its red stems. It is the tenacious plant roots of these shrubs that hold the soil in place. These plants have adapted to extreme conditions and will survive periods of flooding and then long periods of little rain. They are deciduous and can be pruned aggressively to maintain views. There are many other plants that can tolerate a range of conditions that make them ideally suited to shorelines and the vagaries of the weather. For other plant choices please peruse the article on Solutions to Erosion .
Hard surfaces like steps and retaining walls do nothing to slow the flow of water from the top of a slope or prevent the force of a river or wave action from slowly undermining these structures. Engineers have found that rip rap is not always effective in stabilizing the shore but merely armours it for a period of time. Rip rap does a poor job of absorbing the energy of water and merely deflects waves to the edges undermining neighbouring properties. Placing plants in rip rap to accumulate organic debris from roots can help.
Restorationists are now opting to use vegetation and softer organic materials. In serious cases a steep slope may need to be cut back to reduce the angle and then clothed in coco mat to hold the disturbed soil in place until plant roots spread enough to take over this function. Coconut fiber rolls and mats placed along a shoreline can absorb and redirect water and can be planted so that plant roots can eventually take over.
Ideally we want to take care of water before it reaches the shore. And to do that we need to assess the state of the landscape from the shoreline back to your property line. We would need to consider how many buildings and parking areas with impervious surfaces, grass vis a vis a many layered woodland are in place. A landscape of different layers allow light to penetrate to all plants – low perennials, understory, upper canopy.
Erosion has a lot to do with upland management. The ideal is to have the ground water from rainfall and runoff be absorbed, filtered and cleaned before it runs down the slope to the water body. Bio swales, raingardens, and undulations in the landscape can all be used to hold water and give it time to absorb into the ground.
Forests filter and regulate the flow of water. Leaves capture and slow the fall of rain to the forest floor. The ground acts like an enormous sponge, absorbing up to 46 centimetres (15 in) of precipitation before gradually releasing it to streams and recharging ground water. On average an untouched forest floor can absorb 2/3rds more rain than a cover of suburban turf.
Well vegetated upland areas can still offer a view. Deciduous shrubs and trees can be thinned, and branches removed with little effect on the vegetation. It’s called ‘vista pruning’ and looks more attractive than a clear-cut swath down to your lake. Use brush and other available organic matter to build soil to reclaim poor soil areas. It may take a few years for twigs and branches to break down in our temperate zone with our short summers and cool evenings, but you’ll eventually be rewarded with rich, moist soil ideal for planting natives. If you can’t wait, you can make a hole in the brush, add soil and plant. Brush piles also act as habitat for wildlife so you may want to have a succession of soil building projects on the go.
Build swales or ditches and then plant them so that plant roots can take up excess water. A bio swale allows surface water to soak into the earth slowly, rather than flooding or shooting down to the lake. Use rocks, logs and any other natural debris to slow down the flow of water and arrest erosion. Place logs perpendicular to a compacted and steep path to direct water to the sides. Use wood chip mulch on the sloped pathways as it is absorbent and is a soil builder. As tempting as it may be, please avoid planting fast growing invasive ground covers like periwinkle (Vinca) and Goutweed (Aegopodium podagraria).
Plants, with their varied root systems blanket and protect the soil from drying out and from blowing or eroding away. They also aerate the soil and provide nutrients to the soil from decaying foliage. Organic material has the additional benefit of providing texture and nutrients to your soil as it breaks down.
An effective and affordable solution for any terrain but particularly steep slopes is the use of wattles which are simply bundles of organic material, possibly coco rolls. Live stakes and/or steel rods are used to hold the material in place. The live stakes are cuttings taken from shrubs such as willow and dogwood, that quickly set down roots. The use of live stakes can only be used in early spring and the stakes can be bought or cut from existing vegetation before leaf out. Buttonbush, elderberry, viburnum, willow and dogwood are all sold as live stakes. Buy dormant and plant in April/May.
How to obtain plants:
The nursery trade has a very small inventory of native plants, so you’ll have to be creative.
Celebrate what you have, prune, move and enhance.
Transplant or divide from plants on your property.
Collect seed from friends.
Purchase sustainably grown plants
For a list of local landscapers, arborists and nurseries please visit our Buy Local page
Carolyn Langdon, Master Gardeners, 2023
General Care:
- Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce weeds.
- Water 1 inch per week from spring until after harvest.
- Every 3-4 years fertilize in early spring with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10).
- Can be grown in containers, trained up a trellis, pruned into small trees or maintained as a small shrub.
NOTE: Very sharp thorns. Wear gloves when handling and picking berries.
Pests & Diseases:
- Susceptible to powdery mildew and fungus.
Winter/Early Spring Pruning Steps (bush still dormant):
- Remove dead and diseased wood.
- Remove tangled, crossed, overcrowded or branches touching the ground.
Branches that are left, make the following cuts just above an outward facing bud:
- Cut back the previous seasons grown by half.
- Cut back side branches between 1 and 3 buds from the base of the shoot.
- Remove any suckers growing away from the main stem.
NOTE: For established plants, remove canes over 4 years old. Ideal bush has about a dozen canes at any one time, half being new shoots and other half a mix of 2- and 3-year-old canes.
Summer Pruning (mid-June):
- Pruning of new growth will improve air circulation. Shorten new growth tips to 5 leaves.
Scientific Name: Lythrum salicaria L.
Common Name: Purple Loosestrife
Family: Lythraceae (Loosestrife)
Type of Plant: Herbaceous Perennial
Usage: Ornamental
Identifying Characteristics:
Stems & roots: Stout plant, erect (24-48in); 4 angled stem can be smooth to fuzzy; long, well-established tap root
Leaves: Smooth, opposite (2 per node) or whorled (3 per node); narrow to narrowly oblong and heart shaped at base; 1.25-4 in long, attach directly to stems; upper leaves & those in the inflorescence alternate (1/node) & smaller than lower leaves
Flowers: Magenta – pink, tightly clustered, dense, terminal spikes from 4-20in; sepals united into a column with 8-12 prominent green veins & ending in several, long, thin, pointed lobes; 5-7 petals approx. 1/4in long; several stamens & 1 pistil; small seedpod. Bloom late June – mid Sept. Many garden species previously thought to be sterile can produce seeds by cross pollination with wild & other species, increasing the opportunities for spreading
Habitat: In the wild – wetlands, sedge meadows, open bogs. Can also occur along streams, riverbanks, lake shores. Opportunistic in areas with recent soil disturbance. Grows best in highly organic soils in full sun
Invasive Potential: Introduced from Europe. 2.7 million seeds per plant annually, highly invasive in wetland areas through wind, birds, animals & humans. Readily establishes itself, crowding out native species. Decrease in biodiversity has far reaching ecological implications including displacing plants & animals, eliminating food & shelter for wildlife, degrading native wetlands, reducing habitat for waterfowl. Native to Eurasia
Control: No effective method except in small, localized growth area where it can be intensively managed. Isolated areas, uproot plant by hand ensuring the removal of all parts of plant including all roots
Other methods of control: cutting, burning where permitted, herbicide application although herbicides can destroy other nearby plants
Biological control using root weevil (Hylobius transversovittatus), 2 specie
s leaf eating beetles (Galerucella pusilla & Galerucella calmariensis) have been approved by Canadian government. Research indicate there is little chance of permanent host transfer as these insects only feast on purple loosestrife
Recommendations: Recommended to dig all cultivars of Purple Loosestrife from the landscape and, according to the Manitoba Purple Loosestrife Project, can best be replaced with Spiked Gayfeather (Liatrus); a native plant with pink, purple or white flowers that is an environmentally safe perennial. It requires full sun to part shade, height up to 1.5-2.5m, hardy to CDA zone 3; blooms midsummer to Sept
Scientific Name: Lonicera tatarica
Common Name: Tartarian Honeysuckle
Family: Caprifolaceae (Honeysuckle)
Type of Plant: Flowering Deciduous Shrub
Usage: Ornamental
Stems & roots: Woody, multi-stemmed, upright 2-5m; Branches thin, smooth, becoming hollow; Dicotyledon; bark turns pale grey & shreds with age
Leaves: Opposite, ovate, 3-6cm long, short-stalked & blue-green; Smooth, hairless, bluish-green leaves
Flowers: Usually in 2 pairs developing in axils of leaves at end of branches; 2 leaflets beneath each bud pair, 2 sepals above leaflets; Petals pink to crimson, tubular, 2-lipped, 7-20mm long, fragrant. Blooms May-June. Fruit – abundant berries 3mm diameter, joined at base, ripening orange to red that are available in winter for the birds & other wildlife
Habitat: Adaptable to wide range of habitat; open woods, ravines, woodland edges; prefer moist, sunny areas
Invasive Potential: Moderately invasive in Ontario. Replaces native understory species & ground flora thereby changing vegetation structure; impedes forest seedling & natural tree regeneration; spread by birds & mammals dispersing seed. Native Eastern Asia
Control:
Mechanical: less dense infiltrations – pull ensuring all roots removed
Chemical: systemic herbicides such as Roundup are most effective. Another method is to cut off near ground level & apply herbicide
Biological: There are no current biological control methods available
Recommendations: As with most invasive plants it is best to remove and replace. To contain remove seedlings annually as they appear. Widespread dispersion by birds limits effectiveness. Replacement with North American natives such as Spice bush (Lindera benzoin) – hardy to CDA zone 5 or Viburnum – hardy to CDA zone 3
Scientific Name: Rhamnus frangula L.
Common Name: Glossy Buckthorn
Family: RHAMNACEAE (Buckthorn)
Type of Plant: RBC site consider this plant a deciduous tree but many sites consider it a flowering deciduous shrub
Usage: Ornamental
Identifying Characteristics:
Stems & roots: Most often grow in large shrub habit with a few to several stems shooting up from base; shrubs spreading, loosely branched crowns; Bark grey – brown with prominent, lighter-coloured lenticels (pores in the stem of a woody plant allowing exchange of gases between the plant and the exterior)*. Unusual winter appearance with naked, hairy terminal buds & appealing curved twigs with closely-spaced, prominent leaf scars giving the twigs a bumpy outline against a white snowy backdrop. Tree habit reaches 6-9m high and 26cm diameter
Leaves: Thin, glossy, ovate or elliptic leaves, 3.8-7.6cm long; upper leaf surface shiny; lower surface hairy or smooth with margins that are not toothed – a distinguishing feature from the similar common buckthorn
Flowers: Yellow-green, 4 petals develop in clusters of 2-6 near base of petioles. Plant are dioecious (male & female sex organs on separate plants). Fruits small, black berries 0.6cm in diameter appear singly or in small groups in leaf axils. Fruit is poisonous except to European Starling – primary agent responsible for the spread
Habitat: Prefers range of wetland areas such as marshes and bogs but can grow in upland habitats such as forest, wood edges & old fields. In Ontario, primarily near larger populations
Invasive Potential: Invasive locally in Southern & Eastern Ontario. Rapid spread & ability to invade native wetland areas suggest this will become a serious threat in the future. Detrimental effects include: outcompeting native plants for nutrients, light & moisture; degrading wildlife habitat, serving as host to pests such as crown rust fungus
Control:
Mechanical: Remove isolated plants early before seed production, prescribed burns if permitted by law (may need to do this for several years);
Chemical Control: Best during fall season to lessen risk of affecting non-target plants;
Biological Control: No current biological control methods
Recommendations: As with most invasive plants it is best to remove and replace. As with the Glossy Buckthorn, replacement with same North American natives such as Spice bush (Lindera benzoin) – hardy to CDA zone 5 or Viburnum – hardy to CDA zone 3 is recommended
Resources:
* Life Sciences & Allied Applications / Botany definition
Invasive Plants of the US: Plant Conservation Alliance’s Alien Plant Working Group: Environment of Canada: Royal Botanical Gardens: Ontario Food & Agriculture: Ministry of Agriculture, Food & Rural Affairs: Ontario Federation of Anglers & Hunters: Invading Species: Ducks Unlimited; Talk About Wildlife; Alberta:
Two ‘Lost Lady Beetles’ – if you find one – WE WANT TO KNOW ABOUT IT!
These native Lady Beetles, once common in Ontario, are now endangered and Haliburton Highlands Land Trust (HHLT) is looking for them this summer.
Two not ‘lost’, but very rare Lady Beetles, if you find one – WE WANT TO KNOW ABOUT IT TOO!
If you think you see any of these Lady Beetles take a picture (from several angles if possible), with notation of location found, then post on iNaturalist “Lady Beetles of Haliburton County” project or email, along with your contact information to admin@haliburtonlandtrust.ca
Nine-spotted and Transverse Lady Beetles are species at risk (SAR) in Ontario and HHLT is trying to help! We will be searching our own properties and we are hoping you will help by becoming a Citizen Scientist and help sleuth on our behalf in your backyards or along your favourite hiking trails.
These beauties are not picky about their habitat, as long as they have food (like aphids). They will live in farm fields, meadows, forest edges, clearings, backyards and gardens…..so please keep your eyes open! Even though tiny, they play an unique role in the food web ecosystem. Each time a species disappears the food web gets weaker. We need to keep the web strong to support all life on Earth, including humans!
Not to be mistaken by these impostors:
Haliburton Highlands Land Trust 739 Mountain Street, P.O. Box 804 Haliburton, ON K0M 1S0
705-457-3700 admin@haliburtonlandtrust.ca www.haliburtonlandtrust.ca
Funding for this project was provided by the Government of Ontario
Photos obtained under Creative Commons licenses. Credits: Nine-spotted-Rebecca Ray, Jason Headley; Transverse—Lon&Queta; Two-spotted–urjsa; Parenthesis-Bloin Perrick; Asian and Seven spotted-Oregon Department of Agriculture.
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